Monthly Archive: August 2015

(Amaadhi) Water

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It’s 6 a.m.

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An hour later


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I will make this one my last of the day. At first the people insisted that I go to the front of the water line to get my water “before the bore hole dries today” I was resisting this. So they said, instead of coming at the end of the line at 7 a.m., come at 6 a.m. So now I put my Jerry can(s) in line, and then come back at 7 am. Today an elder said I have to pay 2,000 shillings per month for the privilege, which is the same as everyone. Adams said that is correct and on me, since the NGO doesn’t have to provide water or electricity. Ugh. This morning the man was only letting us get 1 1/2 Jerry cans. Between washing clothes and dishes, bucket bathing, boiling or sterilizing water to drink and brew tea, it doesn’t take long to go through a Jerry can And that is just for me. Imagine the water consumption for a family. It gives fresh perspective on this precious resource. Dry season is getting here more and more. The Jerry cans are 20 liters, which is 44 lbs.

Early Morning, Cold Taxi

This is how we get between towns. The Taxis have four rows of 4-5 people behind the front row, everyone all crammed together, plus the conductor who is shown here trying to get passengers. IMAG1475With a back pack jammed on my lap, it’s not real comfortable. Best place is the front row with leg room and only three across. The taxi’s linger around until they are pretty jammed before leaving.

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I took this a couple of months ago while it was still filling up. That’s the conductor in front of me.Sometimes you wind up on the crack between the fold up and bench seat.

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Jam city. I am on the second row sitting second from left. Drivers are on the right side. That’s the conductor, practically sitting on the lap of the unseen lady to the left of me. It’s hard to show this photographically

A trip to PC Headquarters in Kampala last week (they will send a car to the stop) took me 3 1/2 hours to get there, 5 1/2 coming back.(Partly my fault because I was taking advantage of their free w-fi and stayed a bit too late, hitting traffic) It would be an hour on our road system. I was transferred to three different taxis before arriving at 9 p.m. You pay the first one when you transfer and somehow the conductors work it all out with each other. PC is unhappy when you are out after dark (sorry Meital if you read this) , but it was so cool to see the nightlife in the passing towns. Part of the adventure! I got out in a busy lighted intersection in Bugiri and plunged into the my neighborhood with my phone torch on, and was safely in my home within minutes. Whenever you stop in a town, vendors start shoving food through the window they want you to buy. Meat on sticks, bottled water, bags of crunchy carbs. I should have taken a picture of this. Sorry!

Potty talk

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I don’t have running water so I share this pit latrine with my two neighbors. It’s on the left. The door on the right is for bucket bathing, although my stall is in my place

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This one is kind of fancy because there are raised pads to place your feet. “Short calls” are easy for the guys of course. For “Long Calls” you squat like a catcher, reach down your front to the back and carefully pull the back of your pants forward. Make sure to secure your cell phones and wallet! Must be a real pain for women to gather their long skirts. My sister had the idea to convert a pit latrine into a western toilet by cutting a hole in one of those plastic chairs and taking it in there. The foot pads here would interfere with that plan however. It would also be too far from the hole. We had western toilets in my language learning site I would try to use, but now I don’t really have a choice. I have gotten used to it.

When I was growing up, during movies and TV shows my mom would often bring up the practical reality that the characters never seem to have to go to the bathroom. (King Kong on the Empire State Building “What if he has to go to the bathroom?”) Certainly there are some interesting aspects of going to the bathroom in Uganda, so mom, these next photos are dedicated to you!

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One of the first things I read in another PCV blog after my invitation was “In Uganda, every fart is a gamble”. That is the sorry truth, made worse if you are crammed in a taxi. You never want to be caught without toilet paper. Some pit latrines in some places don’t have it. A PCV showed me this trick. Take a bunch of toilet paper, roll it up, and put it inside the cardboard roll. I always have this in my back pocket. Also a source of tissue for the occasional runny nose I have gotten here.

 

 

Relay

People have asked me about Skyping. A similar topic is streaming. With my current set-up, I use my smart phone as a hot spot for my computer, and also individually, which might be fine for Skype. The problem is twofold. First, data is expensive, I pay 125,000sh for 10 gigs which would normally take three months on my present usage. I turn off images on both my computer and phone to help. That’s why I like to take advantage of free wi-fi when I can. I get a living allowance of around 700,000sh/mo. (about $250 US). I am not inclined to personally supplement it, although I did exceed my move-in allowance a little bit. There are those who have a daddy to send extra, but I want to live at the PCV level. But I can make an exception for Rotary if they want to Skype during a meeting. Parents donate airtime for their kids at www.Sendairtime.com. If you want to contribute airtime I can convert to data, I will Skype with anyone. Actually it’s just $19.60 US for 50,000 shillings worth of airtime.That would be enough for a good chat. I know this make me seem cheap, but you don’t think in US Dollars much anymore, and it’s all relative. I am on Africell. I will give out my number privately.

The other problem is download and upload speed. It’s very slow in most places in Uganda. Here is a short video clip Harmony uploaded to Vimeo of the tech immersion group in Jinja. She said it took 5 hours to upload this one minute. The excellent video she put together of training is 5 minutes.
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But besides Skyping, I have another incentive: I want to stream Broncos games. Just to see how that might be, I tried streaming a concert from Red Rocks with my current setup a couple of weeks ago. I would get 4 seconds of video followed by 40 seconds of buffering. UGH But the cost of data drops to 2,500 per gig after midnight (still too late for Rotary). “Happy Night” they call it. One possible way around the streaming problem is for me to get a USB stick. Will bought one and he gets at least 3G. I haven’t been at 3G since I got here. He was able to Skype for an hour with his parents. So maybe I will get a stick. A USB stick is 60,000sh though. I will keep working on this.

Volunteers of America!

Selfie on a stick taken by Harmony. She has great AV skills and put together a fantastic video of our training, I am trying to get her to post it on YouTube. One of the better aspects of this day was seeing all the girls in make-up and nice hair. They clean up well. Boys too.

 

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US Ambassador Scott DeLisi, on the left, and the Ugandan Minister of Health on the right, gave the best speech of the day, mostly extemporaneous, very funny, and made great points.

Look what’s happening out in the streets
Got a revolution (got to revolution)
Hey, I’m dancing down the streets
Got a revolution (got to revolution)
Oh, ain’t it amazing all the people I meet?
Got a revolution, oh-oh
We are volunteers of America
Yeah, we are volunteers of America
We are volunteers of America (volunteers of America)
Volunteers of America (volunteers of America)

-Volunteers / Jefferson Airplane 1969

Matthews, my counterpart, motorcycle driver, and interpreter with the rice and fish farmers. (Just found out we help fish farmers too- they raise them in their own ponds). Tuning my ears to his English is my next challenge. He saw me make a couple of presentations during supervisor workshop, and says my English is beautiful. He is 45, has nine children.

Matthews, my counterpart, motorcycle driver, and interpreter with the rice and fish farmers. (Just found out we help fish farmers too- they raise them in their own ponds). Tuning my ears to his English is my next challenge. He saw me make a couple of presentations during supervisor workshop, and says my English is beautiful. He is 45, has nine children.

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U S Ambassador DeLisi, and my new supervisor Adams. He’s is a jovial fellow and loves the Bugiri Rotary Club. My fellow volunteers liked him during Supervisors workshop

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My Agri-business director, Meital. Great lady, all Peace Corps.

My Agri-business director, Meital. Great lady, all Peace Corps.

Jan was also much on my mind. Starting on the bus ride to the US Ambassador’s house, through all the speeches right up through swearing in, I could not stop thinking about her. It made everything more emotional. I kept tearing up. Maybe she was with me in some karmic way. More likely it was something in my subconscious emerging in a big event, but I have no evidence either way. Hey, sorry, but I am still new to this widower stuff. You can read Jan’s PC Musings (PDF) here, written in her own hand.

The US Ambassador Scott DeLisi is a good guy. Looked him up on Wikipedia, and he is a career diplomat; and so is not serving as a reward for fundraising for a winning presidential candidate. Those people don’t like third world posts anyway. He is leaving this post in Uganda soon. I found his speech on the ground in a folder, during the reception, complete with hand-written edits. Kept it. The Ugandan Minister of Health on the right, gave the best speech of the day, mostly extemporaneous, very funny, and made great points.

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I’m with my remaining “Colorado Girls”, Hannah on the left, Emily on the right. They both represent well our state’s reputation for beautiful, healthy women.

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I took this picture of the interior of the Ambassador’s house while waiting on stairs with a bunch of Ugandans to use the restroom. One of them said, “Are you allowed to take pictures in here?” I replied “I’m an American taxpayer, I paid for this house.” Huge laughter, Ugandans love to laugh large and my clumsy ways provide them with many opportunities. Mango, my language teacher explained once that when we spoke to the school children in their language their laughter is natural way of dealing with new and different circumstances. If a guy falls off his motorcycle, people around him will laugh while coming over to help.

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My roommate David, fellow fossil, doing a native dance at the swearing in

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I passed my Language Proficiency Interview! My two language teachers, Mango on the left and Ken on the right. When encouraging me during my dark days of frustration, Mango told me “Sometimes the old broom sweeps better than new brooms.” He was full of these types of sayings. Once when we visited a farm to try out our Lasoga, he said “Just move about, I will follow you around like a belt on trousers”. Ken came in during the last week for review, and did the LPI interview. He dragged me over the finish line. I got back to Bugiri today, after a two week absence, and realized how much I had already forgotten as I got acquainted with new neighbors on my route. Mango is helping me find a tutor.

Aruna

Aruna

Aruna, my Lost Boy of Sudan friend, and roommate during staging, spoke and  thanked everyone, and his back story was singled out by the Ambassador (he told me later he was requested to write that part). On our Saturday day off during tech immersion a couple weeks ago, he returned to visit the his Uganda refugee camp near the Sudan border for the first time since he and his brothers were taken out of it in 2003. He said it is much bigger and he saw many people he remembered. So many families have raised their children there. Imagine living in a refugee camp your whole life. Sad. I am going to take a long weekend to see Aruna soon, and he promised to take me to the camp, which is about 3-4 hours away from his posting.

I’m setting up my place in Burgiri with various needed furnishings this weekend. I am shopping in Iganga Sunday. I will meet my mother Hellen so she can help me bargain.

Now the two year job begins.

Put me in coach, I’m ready to play

By a wide margin, my last post about Jan provoked more responses than any other post so far. So gratifying to know how loved Jan was, and to share with other readers who were not acquainted with her. Our story provides needed context for my current adventure, and provided me with some catharsis. Some of you took the opportunity to tell me that you have enjoyed my other posts too, and I appreciate that. I am always happy to hear from you and will always try to respond to your comments and questions. I never dreamed I would post so much, but it’s all so interesting to me! When I come home, I will have a heck of journal about this part of my life. The post about Jan was written two weeks ago, so it feels like eight days between posts for me.

This week, with local volunteer Ashley as our guide, we have stayed in Kibaale District, next to the town of Karuguuza. These little towns all remind me of the Old West I have seen in movies, with the dirt streets, the town market, and small businesses lining the main street. Only thing missing is the saloon and hitching posts. Boda bodas instead of horses. You would be hard pressed to differentiate among most small towns throughout Uganda.

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Ashley teaching about VSLAs. See the passbooks?

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Pit Latrine made from clay and bamboo

The first day, we went to a very rural village where Ashley taught them how to keep records for their Village Savings and Loan (VSLA). It was fantastic to watch, since I will likely do this in my time here. VSLAs are getting very popular and Peace Corps is helping Uganda increase a culture of saving. Each member has to put in an agreed weekly minimum amount or they get fined. They use ledgers and passbooks, just like when I was a kid with a church credit union account. Also a lockbox for the money with three separately controlled locks and two other money counters. Dusting off my accounting education about internal controls.

We also got more experience in teaching. This time we used translators, so it was good to learn to get into a rhythm while talking and pausing for the translator. On Thursday, Will and I spoke to a group of Boda Boda drivers about budgeting and saving. We did an exercise in which they tried to figure out how much their monthly income and expenses were, (a rare exercise for Americans too- hence our massive credit card debt).

Reviewing the budgets with the boda drivers. Our translator is is in blue.

Reviewing the budgets with the boda drivers. Our translator is in blue.

They all estimated lots of money left over to save, but couldn’t explain where it went. (A few snickered that women and booze is a good guess 😉 ) Ashley actually thinks I motivated them to keep track of their money for a least a few weeks. They also say they want her to help them form a VSLA.

We also learned about filing quarterly reports with the Peace Corps. I have not escaped the need to keep track of my time! Dave and I also spoke to a school youth group about saving without a translator.
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Uncle Roy, do they have this breed in the USA?

Ashley, an agri-business volunteer, was serving with her husband Matt, a health volunteer. They started in June 2014. (The third type in Uganda, Education volunteers, arrive every November). A couple of months ago, Matt had a seizure and fell, damaging both arms. He can’t remember the incident, and the doctors can’t determine if the seizure or fall happened first. Still a lot of mystery. Matt is back in the USA, and because he can’t finish therapy for his arms and be back at his site within 45 days, he got early termination yesterday. Pretty sure Ashley will stick it out though, until August, 2016, because Peace Corps was her dream. Anyway, Matt is one of four ETs from their class this month, bringing it down to 29 out of their original cohort of 40 from last year, an usually high number of ETs.

Finally my first monkey sighting! White tuft on the tail.

Finally my first monkey sighting! White tuft on the tail.

Sadly, we had our first ET leave yesterday, one of the Colorado girls too. She was raised in Colorado Springs and a recent CSU grad (had a good friend in common with my son Clark). She was agri-business and knew more than almost everyone at training about agriculture. I would have never predicted this. I had reached out to her a few weeks ago when I heard she had issues through the grapevine (I am jokingly referred by some of these kids as their in-country “dad”- I give my advice freely of course- just ask my kids’ friends at home! The rest of the kids here generally mock me :-)). She was kind enough to call me from the Entebbe airport yesterday. She said since early on “it just didn’t feel right” and during each phase it just wouldn’t click in. She will look for a job in the Denver area, so I hope to see her again someday. I understand how a physical ailment could cause me to ET, but otherwise I knew from the beginning I would be horribly embarrassed if I didn’t stick it out. So far, it’s not even a thought.

Day off today before leaving to Entebbe for Supervisors workshop and swearing in at Kampala next week. The hike down was scarier than than the hike up. Nick, Katie, Carson, me, and James.

Day off today before going to Entebbe for Supervisors workshop and then swearing in at Kampala next week. The hike down was scarier than than the hike up. Will, Nick, Katie, Carson, me, and James. I picked up a cool feather on the way and stuck it in the back velcro of my cap.

The adventure vacation continues for me. Next week I will be officially a PCV instead of a PCT.

PS- I just can’t let go of current events back home. I use my phone for as a hotspot for internet access. This constant ability to communicate didn’t exist for PCVs just a few years ago. So sad about the Las Animus river. I would miss Jon Stewart, but Donald Trump- Wow! Karmic balance! I also can’t resist reading about Broncos training camp and I hope Tulo leads Toronto to glory.

 

Mukazi Wange (My Wife)

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Lake MIchigan (Chicago) August 2011

Please indulge me a bit.

I am now in the middle of a nearly five year journey I could not have predicted a mere 2 1/2 years ago. This first week in August covers the date of my 61st birthday and the first anniversary of my wife Jan’s passing on August 6. That week a year ago was terribly difficult and sad for my children and myself, as Jan was in home hospice then.

So I wanted to take this opportunity to remember Jan. Many of you knew her, many of you did not. As a few in my family know, I haven’t really been homesick here in Uganda, but I’ve had the occasional bout of missing Jan, particularly when I think about how cool it would have been to do this experience with her. I have not completely escaped the grief.

CharlesJan1

September 23, 1983

Jan and I were married in 1983. We made a good team. We worked hard, raised our children, enjoyed our friends, and many activities together. We also tolerated each other’s dissimilar interests. I always said that our marriage survived because we let each other do what they wanted to do. With that came complete trust and of course, love.

Shortly after Jan passed, my wonderful niece commented on our marriage. I was so pleased with what she said. This is an excerpt-
Being around you two, I kind of got marriage for the first time. I could see how you loved each other so much, and how you seemed to understand each other so deeply. I saw how two people can completely share a life, and show up for each other every single day, in small unglamorous ways, and how special and real that is.

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With Blair 1990

I’ll never, ever forget my time spent with the both of you. You’re the faces of married love for me now. You were in the thick of it and still your love was impossible not to see.

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She loved our Sunday hikes in the foothills


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As I deal with comparatively easier challenges here in Uganda, I draw inspiration from the way Jan handled her own adversities and challenges. In 2001 when she had breast cancer, not only did she deal with the downside of the surgeries and the misery of chemotherapy, and the drugs, but after 15 years as a Realtor, she emerged with a new career. At the age of 48 she decided to become a nurse. She spent endless hours in our guest bedroom studying. I’m not sure how much her example inspired my children, but it impressed the heck out of me. She received many accolades from Kaiser, including Float Pool Nurse of the year. She was also a union steward, and committed herself to that job full bore, like everything else she did.

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Tri For the Cure August 2011

In 2011, Jan decided to celebrate 10 cancer-free years by competing in the Tri for the Cure, a mini-triathlon involving swimming, biking and running. All summer she trained for it, and ultimately she placed high in her age group. A proud moment.

Finally, there was her final battle, one we knew she could not win, against ALS. Some people tell me I am courageous to do the Peace Corps (I don’t think of it that way- and if you were here among these people, you wouldn’t either), but real courage was Jan facing a terminal illness with an accepting attitude and stoic manner, as gradually (and more quickly than we had hoped) the disease progressed, and she became more debilitated. She never complained, and showed inspiring spirit until the end. I don’t know if I could have handled it so well if our roles had been reversed.

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Clark’s graduation- May 2014

Of course, the primary legacy of our marriage is our children. We were able to see them grow up, complete college, and become responsible independent adults. There were trials to be sure (Blair as a teenager- yikes!) But when my Realtor tells me last month, “Clark is such a gem”, and when Blair earns high praise from her employer for her efforts handling her stressful job, my heart swells with much pride. I can’t imagine having a better relationship than we did, and I do now, with Blair and Clark. Jan has left her mark!

I should also note, that when I going through things when moving out of our home last spring, I found her journal she kept sporadically from ages 16- 28. She had let me read it during another move many years ago, nothing too personal is in it. Anyway, when she was 25, a few years before we met, she made a pro and con list about whether she should join the Peace Corps. I had forgotten about this entry of course.

So raise a toast to Jan, my inspiration, my best lifelong friend, and the love of my life!

Thanks for letting me share this with you.

By the way, Wange is “my”, and Mukazi is “wife”. Getting the words in the right order is as hard as memorizing them!