Monthly Archive: October 2015

On the Road Again

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I took this picture from the window of this scenery on the way to Kampala. It’s like this for several miles. This must be where the stock photo on my home page came from. I have wanted to change my home page photo with one I’ve taken, but haven’t found the right one yet.

On my trip from Bugiri to In Service Training, by way of Kampala, I carried my backpack and lugged a purple suitcase. Seeing me that morning, a few people in my neighborhood asked, “Are you going back to America?” I assured them I would be back shortly. I was vague and omitted I would be gone two weeks because I don’t want the word to get out and my place robbed of course. As it is, the kids on my route are surely going to wonder. I sort of look forward to their excitement when I return.

I hated giving up my suitcase to the Taxi porter, but there really isn’t much choice. It gets tied to the roof with other stuff (including chickens sometimes) or stuffed in a compartment behind the last row of seats via the back hatch. My bag and I were transferred four times before reaching my destination. When it was on the roof, every time we hit a bump I would turn around to make sure it didn’t fall off. On the leg from Jinja to Kampala, they cinched a rope to tie down the back hatch with my bag because that rear compartment was so full. I was in the second to last row, and at one point I reached over the back row and took this picture just to confirm it was still there. Peace of mind I guess, but not much I could do if it wasn’t.IMAG1902
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Just before reaching the Old Taxi Park in downtown Kampala, we stopped, and a passenger removed the other bag you see in the photo. It alarmed me that the conductor didn’t go back there with him. Sure enough, a few minutes later, I saw my bag tumble to the street while we pulled away through heavy traffic. I yelled for the driver to stop, along with other passengers, and toiled my way out and ran back through the traffic. Happily, I soon saw a boda driver with my bag balanced on his handle bars. I trust he was trying to follow us. Probably should have tipped him.

I returned back to my taxi, and the conductor said “Sorry”. “Sorry” is the unemotional response Ugandans make to any misfortune- in my case it’s usually when I bump my head getting in. Last week it was the only response when I said “I thought you were picking me up for dinner, I waited for you in the rain.” “Sorry” rarely sounds sincere, it’s like the casual version of “Excuse me.” However, the conductor graciously allowed me to keep my bag next to me the last mile since now there was room for it. Still, I reflect how only a few months ago, traveling alone with taxis, navigating in crazy downtown Kampala no less, was sort of a scary process without a veteran PCV to guide us. Maybe next June I will be that PCV helping the next Agri-business cohort.

In Service Training

This is the end of the first week of In Service Training (IST). Essentially it’s an opportunity to learn some new skills, share initial experiences about our home sites and orgs, and provide feedback about our needs to our supervisors. Some requested to learn some Income Generating Activities to teach in the villages,so, as you will see below, we learned how to make Passion fruit and pineapple juice, and environmentally friendly cooking briquettes.

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I’ve been watching the World Series via the internet. I get up at 5 a.m. and join Scott on the right, at about the 5th inning. He worked in the marketing department for the Mets and is a huge fan, tortured until today His roommate Nick, not pictured, is from Kansas City. A real test of their friendship. Reeves on the left is a sports fanatic from Georgia. During the first game he was on his computer conducting a 13 round NBA fantasy draft with 9 friends in the USA. The first game went 14 innings and we had to leave on a bus. Scott was able to carry his computer and continue watching en route. This morning the power was out, so when Scott’s battery died, we switched to my laptop. Monday morning at 3:30 a.m. I’m hosting Packers fanatic Becky and anyone else who cares for the live Broncos game. She is looking forward to trash talking me, but she will have to do it quietly. I have the ability to replay it after Monday sessions too, for the ones who don’t want to get up early.

We are staying at a place called Ulrika Guest House, on the road from Kampala to Entebbe. It’s part of a pretty large complex, and run by nuns, who are pretty cool. They sell us beer. There are crucifixes everywhere. I don’t think I am ever out of Jesus’ eyesight. The nuns gave us older guys and a few others single rooms.

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Using different colored yarn we learned how to show the spread of the HIV virus. AIDs has left many orphans in Uganda. We drew cards to determine our risks, such as “Married with three wives, using condoms”, “Player who is unprotected”, “Loyal to single spouse” etc. I took this picture outside the circle because my card said “Abstinence” and the trainer told me to get out. Big laugh when that happened, Art imitating Life.

It’s been great seeing everyone in my cohort for the first time since our August swearing in. Training activities in the day, soccer or volley ball late afternoon until dark, and social stuff or relaxing in my room after dinner. We’ve had individual meetings with the PC supervisors, during which I indicated no real problems for me. Compared to stressors of the past two years, and my tired old law practice, I continue to view the Peace Corps as a long adventure vacation. I think I have the personality, skills, stamina and attitude to be a good volunteer. With 22 months to go, I only worry about my job getting boring, so I will try to keep it interesting. Of course I do miss my “family life” in the evening, but with grown kids leading their own independent lives, it wouldn’t be that much different in Denver. Lately I’ve been watching Game of Thrones at night on my computer.

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We took a field trip and learned how to make juice from these passion fruits.

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Here I am, ready to go to work making passion fruit juice and pineapple juice, while David photo bombs me.

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You scoop out the passion fruit and then put it through a sieve and cook it,

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We also learned how to make cooking briquettes (Ugandans pronounce it brick’- its) out of banana peels, cassava peels and husks, and maize cobs.  In the background is a barrel contraption to turn it into char, which is essentially covering the flames so no oxygen, and then it caramelizes.

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Harmony holds a small briquette

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A larger briquette which custom fits their stoves which the NGO also makes. After the waste is turned into char, it’s mixed with cassava porridge for binding, and 1/10 clay dirt for filler.

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It really glows when it cooks. These briquettes cook faster, burn longer, and are smokeless, so you can cook indoors.Using bio waste reduces the number of trees cut down for charcoal and firewood..It’s an easy sell as the word gets out about this process.

 

I’ve learned other PCVs have counterparts that don’t give them the time of day, NGOs that are running out of funds or don’t have challenging work, or there is too much work. It has really hit home how many of these PCVs plunged into the Peace Corps immediately following their college graduations, so probably it’s a bit of a jolt. The main psychiatrist for the Peace Corps visited us. He said last year 4,000 were chosen from over 20,000 applicants. He said when employers look through submitted resumes, they all show similar backgrounds but the fact you state you were in the Peace Corps will always stand out and give them something interesting to discuss in your interview. Not taking anything away from my own children, who could easily fit in, I continue to be impressed with the quality of the kids I am serving with.

Garden II

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This how it looked before I started. The roof line is along the left side, and the slope comes from the wall. Peter told me to change the direction of the garden by 180 degrees. Note the sack garden with onions.

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After Day 1, basically tearing up some sod.

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Day 2, moving dirt from right to left to try to level it. The roof line goes out just past the concrete

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Day 3, beds, pathways, and corner holes taking shape. I’m using a hoe for everything, just like in the village.

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The rains stalemated me a bit, and then I brought in Matthews who dug the crap out of the two beds and mixed in two bags of manure. It took him 15 minutes to do what I was calculating was a 2-3 hour chore

Ready for planting

Ready for planting


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Matthews panting cabbage seeds. I put in a berm on the concrete to the left to help direct the roof water in the garden.

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We planted cabbage, carrots and kale seeds. In training our planting day was rained out and Peter had to go to Rwanda, so I had to rely on Matthews. We didn’t do everything totally by the “book” and I might dig another one next season.

This is how it looked today a few days after planting. I have put grass clippings on it to protect from pounding rain. Sort of looks like burial plots 🙂

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I leave tomorrow for two weeks in Entebbe to re-unite with my class for In-Service Training. The second week, we will be joined by our counterparts. Some PCVs do not have access to garden space. My PC supervisor Meital, liked the sack gardens and this elevated bed garden of cabbage at my office and recruited Matthews to teach the PCVs how to make them.

Training in permagarden construction seems so long ago, but our teacher Peter gave us an excellent guide book when he left. I dug my own permagarden with Matthews during the past two weeks. It’s right in front of our office. Things were not so simple, however. I dug it to catch water off the roof, but the natural slope is not away from the roof. Much of my effort went toward trying to change the slope, not an easy chore. At best I made it level. I was sending pictures to Peter and getting his advice. Matthews came through like the calvary. These pictures will take you through the process.

Where I Work

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Time for a short tour of my office. The window behind my desk is in the middle of the building. My permagarden is on the right of the stand. You’ve seen pictures of Adams, and Matthews, these are the rest of Bugiri staff

Emma is a trainer, friendly guy. Has a wife and a kid. Not sure he is on board to teach farmers record keeping.

Emma is a trainer, friendly guy. Has a wife and a kid one on the way.

Williams is a trainer. He and Emma are recent university graduates, happy to be employed.

Williams is a trainer. He and Emma are recent university graduates, happy to be employed.

Janet is our accountant, trying to be coy. She recently got the maroon hair wig treatment. She is 24, right between the ages of my own kids. There were two other ladies. One had a baby and hasn't been back. The other one, Helen, who has my kitten,has been gone more than a week.

Janet is our accountant. She recently got the maroon hair wig treatment. She is 24, right between the ages of my own kids.

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This Moses, my office mate, National Programme Director, and village chicken purchaser.


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This is our front office

This is our front office

This is my office I share with Moses. My desk is on the left. It's not bad. We have no internet so I have to use my own modem.

This is my office I share with Moses. My desk is on the left. It’s not bad. We have no internet so I have to use my own modem.

 

 

Independence Day

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Last Friday was Ugandan Independence Day. A large crowd gathered around a field to watch marching groups make a procession. It was followed by a soccer game between my Bugiri Rotary Club vs. some Primary School Teachers. I’d guess 2,000 people were around the field to watch. I’m sure there was a healthy curiosity about the Muzungu on the Rotary team. This is the reviewing stand

Only the Police procession carried real rifles. Everyone else had sticks.

Only the Police procession carried real rifles. Everyone else had sticks.

Team introductions over loudspeakers and everything! The President of the Rotary put my name on the lineup card as "Charles Muzungu"

Team introductions over loudspeakers and everything! The President of the Rotary put my name on the lineup card as “Charles Muzungu”

A team photo before our Rotary Club played. The lady behind me in green was our goal keeper, named Ford. Most names are sort of old fashioned like Agnes.

A team photo before our Rotary Club played. The lady behind me in green was our goal keeper, named Ford. Most names are sort of old fashioned like Agnes.

The Rotarian on the right, Egesa, is running for Parliament as an independent. He was also our best football player.

The club president Moses is on the left. I have met many men named Moses in Uganda. I had a law partner named Moses once, The Rotarian on the right, Egesa, is running for Parliament as an independent. He was also our best football player.

 I played in the back defense for the first half. They only had one opportunity to score, and I looked pathetic trying to stop their onrushing forwards. Fortunately, the ball sailed over the goal. Otherwise we had the ball on their end the whole first half but couldn't score. The teachers dominated the second half while I sat out, and won 2-0. A couple of days ago some boys in my neighborhood said they saw how badly I played. ;-).

I played in the back defense for the first half. They only had one opportunity to score, and I looked pathetic trying to stop their onrushing forwards. Fortunately, the ball sailed over the goal. Otherwise we had the ball on their end the whole first half but couldn’t score. The teachers dominated the second half while I sat out, and won 2-0. A couple of days ago some boys in my neighborhood said they saw how badly I played. ;-).

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I forgot this last week. Adams hosted a Rotary party in front of our offices on a Sunday night. We had roasted goat! Definitely need toothpicks for that meat. Power went out right when it started (for 24 hours), so we used candles.


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How about this? A coal powered iron! We have frequent power outages and my neighbor Ali borrowed it to press his shirts. My permanent press shirts look pretty good after drying on the line. I wear a few of the more wrinkly ones on weekends.

How about this? A coal powered iron! We have frequent power outages and my neighbor Ali borrowed it to press his shirts. My permanent press shirts look pretty good after drying on the line. I wear a few of the more wrinkly ones on weekends.

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Occasionally you see kids pushing bike tires with sticks. A bygone sight in America, unless there are tire pushing video games.

Rainy season is back. I am trying to get my permagarden finished! Will post on that later. My umbrella got blown off my porch into the flooded compound.

Rainy season is back. I am trying to get my permagarden finished! Will post on that later. My umbrella got blown off my porch into the flooded compound.

This is a road on the way to work after a heavy rain the night before. The kid is one of two really tiny ones (1-2 years old I'm guessing) who absolutely want to get to me when I pass by. I often throw them up a bit or carry them back to their home.

This is a road on the way to work after a heavy rain the night before. The kid is one of two really tiny ones (1-2 years old I’m guessing) who absolutely want to get to me when I pass by. I often throw them up a bit or carry them back to their home.

This is the second kid. I try to get to their side of the road so because they don't look when they come out.

This is the second kid. I try to get to their side of the road so because they don’t look when they come out.

 

Daily Records

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Matthews holds the rice sack summary with me and translates. That’s Moses in the foreground checking data while I talk.

Here I am, speaking to a farmer group after their weekly VSLA meeting, about the importance of record keeping. I ask at the beginning: Who keeps records? No one does. For a Peace Corps assignment, I interviewed the heads of the three financial institutions in Bugiri. I asked their biggest problem with customers, all mentioned lack of record keeping.

I encourage the farmers to keep simple crop records in a notebook (Date of planting; Amount of inputs used; Date of harvest; How much was the yield; Additional notes about disease, drought etc.). I also show them how a cash book works (it’s similar to a check register- if you are under 30 ask your parents).

I do not want to spend the next two years speaking to 200 farmer groups about record keeping. In a staff meeting yesterday, (after clearing my talk with Adams) I explained that Peace Corps wants me to help farmers, but my job is also to help ATEFO help farmers; so my efforts are sustainable after I leave. ATEFO’s primary purpose is teaching farmers to take a more business-like approach to farming, rather than just sustenance. Record keeping is fundamental to being successful in business.

The farmers can already see how important record keeping is, since the VSLA needs a journal to record welfare and savings contributions, and loans, and each farmer has his own passbook. Extending the concept to the farm and home should be easy, and this record keeping is much simpler compared to the VSLA record keeping.

Our trainers run around to these village VSLA meetings to write down data on savings to report to our funders, and will point out any deficiencies they see in their VSLA, both laudable activities. We are helping build a culture of saving. But we are failing the farmers if they do not receive a 20-30 minute lesson on record keeping, budgeting, post-harvest handling etc.

I suggested that each trainer in the our three districts should go out with me for a talk or two, then I would go out with them to watch them give the same talk. They are seeing these groups at least once or twice a month, so throw in a talk. We get more lessons delivered to more groups this way. Their talks would be faster than mine too, without a translator.

Speaking of translating, I say five words, then Matthews (holding the rice sack with me) speaks for 60 seconds. He swears he says what I say, and the three Bugiri trainers we go out with agree Lusoga takes longer to say the same thing. It’s hard to argue, because as you know, I am no expert on Lusoga.

I can’t say whether the trainers will agree to this process, although Adams seems to, and one trainer admits I am right about ATEFO’s purpose and sees no issue with my plan. But it requires a little bit more time, as they race around collecting data. If no one is there with the trainer, how do we check that the lesson is given? Maybe randomly check with VSLA chairmen. It’s like I used to say to clients: I am paid to give you advice, it’s up to you whether to follow it.

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When middle class Americans run low on money, they often use up their retirement funds, and credit cards until they run out of credit. They hope they get that new job or their business will get better, and then they will pay it all back, only turning to bankruptcy as a last resort.

Ugandans don’t have those two ‘backstops’ let alone an ability to get a ‘fresh start’ which bankruptcy provides. They also don’t get unemployment benefits. So have a bad harvest, and the next step is food insecurity (but not if they have a permagarden!) , or eating poorly, causing stunted growth and other nutritional ailments . School fees can’t get paid either, so the children suffer in that regard too.

Meanwhile the children keep getting born….

Once while I was speaking to a farmer group, my office mate and trainer Moses went deeper into the village and bought a couple chickens to take home. He hung them on his handlebars and said he would let them get fatter before eating them. What do chickens think as they hang, going down the road? Maybe one day I will do a blog post on chicken and rooster behavior. I've learned a lot watching them everywhere I go.

Once while I was speaking to a farmer group, my office mate and trainer Moses went deeper into the village and bought a couple chickens to take home. He hung them on his handlebars and said he would let them get fatter before eating them. What do chickens think as they hang, going down the road? Maybe one day I will do a blog post on chicken and rooster behavior. I’ve learned a lot watching them everywhere I go.

On Saturday I got my first visit from another PCV, Vanessa. She had her home stay for language learning in Bugiri and wanted to visit her home stay family for the last time before her service as an Education volunteer ends in December. So I finally got to show off my home!

Besides introducing me to her lovely home stay family, she showed me where a pork joint is on the edge of town. Most PCVs love pork joints. The cooking was in a thatched hut with a another hut next door with tables and chairs. We got there at noon and were served at 1:30, about normal for a pork joint. We ordered two kilos. They chop and cook it up on a large plate. Very fatty with lots of little bones, but it’s pretty good. Forgot to take pictures. No one at my office knew of this place, so we will all go there some day. Except Adams, who is Muslim, so it’s his loss.

Vanessa (29) is taking the foreign service exam today (Wednesday) at Peace Corps headquarters, as she tries to figure out what to do next. She is considering Peace Corps Response, something my niece Britta did. In Response, a returned volunteer (or any American with 10 years experience in a suitable career) goes to a country for only about nine months or a year. Britta terminated early in Bolivia due to civil unrest, and then did Response in Liberia. I may want to do this too. More exotic travel on someone else’s dime. Anyway, good luck to Vanessa!

This week is slower than last week , when I visited about 10 villages and gave my talk to a few of them. Monday was primary election day for the NRM party (President Museveni’s party – the National Resistance Movement). My trainers said no one would show up for VSLA meetings. NRM has another primary on October 26 for different offices. On Tuesday we had the aforementioned staff meeting. Today, Matthews is in Jinga for some medical tests, so no riding out to villages. A chance to work on my blog. Friday is Uganda Independence Day. I will walk with the Bugiri Rotary Club in a parade of some sort, and then we are supposed to play in a soccer game against an unnamed opponent. So I’ll be getting a bit of exercise at practice this week.

Don’t need a helmet, got a hard, hard head

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Actually I do need a motorcycle helmet, on those dirt roads to the villages. It’s really nice, but with the dark visor down, I felt it was too Darth Vader-ish. There were other colors but the Peace Corps gave me this one.

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So I reached out to some friends and asked for stickers to lighten it up a bit. Thanks, to Trrish, Lauren, Mike, Ed, Wayne, Mary, Clark and Jay . Hope I didn’t forget anyone.They were in my first care package, which Clark put together for me. It only took eight days to reach me.   Also special thanks to Mike, who just mailed me his spare Motorcycle jacket and black pants, which don’t look too crazy, with armor in the shoulders, hips. knees, elbows, and back. Looking forward to receiving them. Besides my hard hard head, I’d like to protect those other parts on me too. . I will explain the relevance of the these stickers. Top and bottom are two sports teams from Denver, Avalanche and Nuggets. PJ20 celebrated two decades of Pearl Jam (Jan and I went to Alpine Valley Wisconsin to help them celebrate), the source of today’s blog post title.

 

 

 
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The Who-> sticker was a tough one on the round surface. I’ve been to their shows over five different decades now. I received a bunch of Rotary stickers of various sizes. Fourth decade for Rotary.  I let Adams pick out three for himself. He was thrilled. The sticker at the bottom is from ATEFO, my current organization.

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I still have the Broncos season tickets, Six decades, starting with my dad. This season, I stream them after midnight on my computer. Who knew I could do this serving for the Peace Corps in Uganda? Twice, I’ve had power outages in which my computer’s battery died in the middle of the fourth quarter. So I still have to make small sacrifices. 🙂 The Colorado sticker is for a brew pub. I’m a fifth generation Colorado native through my dad. Jay’s son *is* Ferbie Cakes -a DJ I think.

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The goat is guarding a spot for a Peace Corps sticker when I get one. I spent most of the 70’s at Denver University (Accounting Major and Law School). You can see, there is a lot of my life history on my helmet.

Goin’ Fishin’

On the way home one afternoon, we visited a fish farmer, who we help along with rice farmers. The digging on this pond was almost finished and about to become operational.

On the way home one afternoon, we visited a fish farmer, who we help along with rice farmers. The digging on this pond was almost finished and it’s about to become operational.

This is where fingerlings are kept. He said about 50,000.

This is where fingerlings are kept. He said about 50,000.

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These are his hatcheries

These are his hatcheries

Speaking of fish, these are cooked fish at the market. Can't bring myself to try one. I can buy frozen mince meat (ground beef) only in Iganga. I make spaghetti meat sauce and hamburgers from it on my electric grill. I go about every other weekend to Iganga to withdraw money from Barclays (the only ATM in Bugiri charges 13,000 shillings for a withdrawal and a roundtrip to Iganga is 4,000) and do some shopping. Sometimes I use the free wireless and eat western food at the Sol Cafe, and often I visit my nearby home stay family.

Speaking of fish, these are cooked fish at the market. Can’t bring myself to try one. I can buy frozen mince meat (ground beef) only in Iganga. I make spaghetti meat sauce and hamburgers from it on my electric grill. I go about every other weekend to Iganga to withdraw money from Barclays (the only ATM in Bugiri charges 13,000 shillings for a withdrawal and a roundtrip to Iganga is 4,000) and do some shopping. Sometimes I use the free wireless and eat western food at the Sol Cafe, and often I visit my nearby home stay family.