Monthly Archive: March 2016

No Syrians Here (Yet)

IMAG2996I am now in a routine of presenting programs to four farmer groups each week. In a Thursday farmer group, I gave my first talk about keeping household budgets as a way to control spending, In the USA, where I suspect written household budgets are rare, I helped families with budgets required in connection with their bankruptcy filings. Here, where a man has multiple wives, I recommend keeping multiple home budgets. I hope it promotes trust and harmony between the families. There is often suspicion the husband is favoring one family over the other, so best to work together and lock in the amounts. I asked how many men have more than one wife. Almost all ten men in the group raised their hands and sort of shrugged about it.. I ignore the moral dilemma this presents to supposed Christians (Muslims claim their faith allows it), but observe that the culture of polygamy typically increases the number of children, and hence adds to the strain on their limited resources

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This is Agnes, my neighbor behind our office, sifting and picking her rice, a common sight in the third world. Here she is picking out small stones. I eat lots of rice in restaurants and I automatically check for pebbles with my tongue before I chew. My rice cooker is used for noodles.

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Here is Agnes at mid-flip. I never knew why they did this. It separates out the lighter husk remnants which catch the breeze. Sure enough they were on the ground by her.

On an off day, I was invited to speak at another primary school near Mbale, where one of Matthews’ sons is a teacher. I was stunned by the size of the crowd of parents jammed into a class room just to hear me. I am evolving a decent stump speech for these occasions.
Whenever I ask for questions, I get some variation of “We have such a need of your knowledge and skills, how can we get more Peace Corps volunteers?” I respond that 200 Peace Corps volunteers in a country of 38 million are stretched pretty thin. I lament that my country has far more resources devoted to endless unsuccessful military engagements. I just read that the Department of Defense is the world’s largest employer, with more than 1.3 million men and women on active duty and 742,00 civilian personnel. This compares to 220,000 total Peace Corps volunteers over 55 years. I tell them I wish my country could begin to flip this priority, but with our two likely militaristic candidates, it will not change with our elections this year.

The parents should donate their own knowledge, skills and resources. Volunteer to help at school by helping a group with reading, tend to the school garden, help with maintenance or any number of non-monetary contributions.

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Chicks painted pink! Easter is coming! Friday and Monday are public holidays.

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Two poor goats are stuffed under the rear seat of a taxi

I also spoke to two classrooms of children, one of them P1 through P4 and the other P5- and P6. Here is a brief video showing how the classes in Uganda always greet their visitors. Besides asking them to appreciate the sacrifices their parents make to ensure their education, I stress how important it is to always do your best, and get in the habit of being honest, the two qualities I wanted from my own children.

For a secondary project, I am establishing a relationship with a youth group called the “Education Club” at Bakooli College (high school), which is within walking distance of my office. The club seemed to be the group with the most goals and activities congruent with what I am doing. I am also hoping to make it a Rotary Interact Club, so it can get needed support from the Bugiri Rotary Club. The teacher/adviser and a boy and girl from this group will accompany me to Youth Technical Training for a week in late April, in Jinja. I turned down an offer to form a youth group in a deep village because of the unreliability of my transportation, but I am going to meet the head teacher to see about presenting some programs there.
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This is pretty typical of the refugee compounds. Almost all of them had been swept clean.

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In front of the primary school.with Tom, Ryan.and Aruna. Definitely an upgrade compared to village schools.

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Aruna stands with his “uncle” who came to the camp in 2002, a couple of years after Arruna’s arrival, , and a childhood friend. Just like Aruna’s older brother, the uncle was involuntarily conscripted into the Sudanese army, and escaped when he got the opportunity, later sending for his wife. The situation has not gotten much more secure all these years later.

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A cute chicken coop at Aruna’s uncle’s place. Recently they got a disease and all died.

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Sign near the entrance

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Playing pool outdoors. Tom and Ryan have seen this in other villages.

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These tents are temporary shelters for new arrivals

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After the camp we took a took a trip to the shores of Lake Allen, which marks Uganda’s western border with the Democratic Republic of the Congo. The water looked awful. I would not eat fish from here.

Last Friday, I traveled all day to Homia on the western side of Uganda. There, I met Aruna, my PCV friend and former Lost Boy of Sudan, and two other PCVs, Tom and Ryan. We visited the refugee camp from Aruna’s childhood, which I wrote about in one of my first blog posts.. It was an interesting and enlightening experience. Unlike my assumptions of teeming refugees living in squalor, the place was nicer than the villages I go to. Clusters of huts are scattered throughout, and plenty of land for farming is available. It is not surprising that some have been there more than 20 years. This camp has 22,000 refugees, about twice as many as when Aruna was there. The vast majority are Congolese. The photos tell the story.

Every race, every creed, education

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The parents and students in attendance

Today is a public holiday. In fact around the world it is International Woman’s Day. I don’t think it is recognized so much in the USA.

ATEFO has selected fifty farmer groups in Bugiri district to receive intensified training. While ATEFO waits for additional funding to bring back the other trainers, Matthews and I will start on three of these groups. I wanted to do four or five, but Adams insisted on only three to start. We were supposed to go out Monday, but on Sunday Matthews learned he lost a 9 y.o. grandson to cancer, and the burial was Monday. Knowing that I have been anxious to start training again, he was willing to stay in Bugiri, but I said he should go to the burial. One more day won’t matter. So hopefully tomorrow we will finally get back out to the villages.

On Saturday, Matthews had requested me to speak to a meeting of parents and children of a school he is supporting in his home village near Kamuli. I had to take two taxis to get to Kamuli, where Matthews met me and then we took a borrowed motorcycle to the village. The taxis were slow, as they often are, constantly stopping to solicit passengers. I sat in Jinja for 45 minutes waiting for the taxi to Kamuli to fill up. By the time we got to the meeting we were an hour late. Being late is a Ugandan tradition but I didn’t want to add to it. Many had gone home, but there was still a nice size crowd when we arrived. The local LC-1 and town council chair were also there.

When we pulled up, they started up with a song to greet me. It really caught me off guard, and they did another chorus, led by Matthews, so I could film it. See it here. The women love to make those yelping sounds.

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View from the front door

This village, like most, has a high level of poverty. So far, the school is only pre-school, then P-1, P-2 and P-3. If possible, a grade will be added each year. They are crammed into a very small building,

I think it used to be a home. Matthews says there is the need to accommodate 100 students at these ages, though many don’t go to school. While 100 students per classroom is pretty normal in Uganda, no way is this school large enough. Somehow they need to raise the funds to build more.

 

What can I say to these people? Essentially I tried to motivate them to cooperate together to overcome their challenges, and appreciate the efforts of supporters like Matthews. I discussed the importance of education, and in particular the importance of keeping their girls in school. I interacted with the children and encouraged them to obey their parents and appreciate the sacrifices they make to see that they get an education.

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Note the blackboard on the left

Note the blackboard on the left

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Another room, No blackboard here. Most of the benches were taken outside for our meeting.

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Meowri is back to being feisty.

I encouraged the headmistress to add English to the curriculum. With 90 different dialects in Uganda, English is the common denominator that might help with their future mobility for jobs. World-wide, English is the “money language”. Simon’s children at my home stay were taking English lessons at the same primary level, including printing it. The village kids are behind in this regard, although just getting to go to school is a challenge.

I mentioned my own father attended a similar one room school house in Virginia Dale, Colorado (Another one room school house built on my pioneer ancestor’s homestead stands today at the Littleton Historical Museum. A few owners later, the Lilley homestead is now Columbine Country Club).

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Back side of the school

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I met a few of Matthews’ children at his home after the meeting. His daughter wears a Colorado T-shirt

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My Aunt Shirley’s hand made stars up in Matthews’ ceiling. They will be Christmas ornaments next year.

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Church under construction. Roofing tiles in the back.

I wasn’t particularly impressed with myself, but Matthews said later I was a big hit. I might represent a ‘great white hope” but securing the resources to improve the school is likely beyond my reach. It’s frustrating, but I have a few hundred farmers here in Bugiri I hope to boost in some small measure. On the plus side, there are couple of acres around the school which can be cultivated to provide nutrition to the students and income for the school. A permagarden can be dug out back and take water from the roof. I may go back to help Matthews dig it. I think Father Christmas will visit the kids too.
Before taking me back to Kamuli to get my taxi home, Matthews brought me by a nearby church under construction It is Seventh Day Adventist. Matthews is a pretty devout SDA, and also is supporting this construction (although not lately!). The walls are up but it still needs a roof. During rainy season, they use a tarp. I saw a pile of roofing tiles to install soon. The church was at least four times the size of the school. I struggle with this. In this village, should the church have the same or higher priority than the school? In my country there is a similar weighing of priorities. Citizens can choose to make a tax-deductible donations to support construction of Churches, and/or choose whether to vote for bonds to repair deteriorating schools or build more. Heaven and Education, both laudable goals, sometimes competing for scarce resources.

I’m a Boy (and Happy Birthday Peace Corps)

A message from the Peace Corps:

55 years ago on March 1, 1961, President Kennedy established Peace Corps. In a message to Congress, Kennedy wrote that the people of these nations are “struggling for economic and social progress.” “Our own freedom,” he continued, “and the future of freedom around the world, depend, in a very real sense, on their ability to build growing and independent nations where men can live in dignity, liberated from the bonds of hunger, ignorance and poverty.”
Peace Corps continues to make a difference at home and abroad and renews its commitment to service. Over 55 years, 220,000 Volunteers have served in 141 countries where Volunteers spoke 154 languages.

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“I’m zonked. What are you doing down there?”

PCV Stephanie referred me to a vet who made house calls if I paid for his transportation from Jinja. I wanted to neuter Meowri before she went into heat. After an anesthetic injection, the vet looked over the patient and informed me she was a he! I had never done an *extremely* close inspection and the vet said this is a common mistake. Since the relevant parts were on the outside, it saved me 50,000 UGx. I suppose I could have decided against it, but the fix will curb some aggressiveness and keep him closer to the compound. The vet said Meowri is small for a cat. I don’t think he was fed too well before I got him, if that has anything to do with it. The vet said Meowri would sleep until about 2 but by 12:30 he was dragging himself around like the cyborg at the end of Terminator II; if you know that scene. Then he was “walking in Italics” as Mango would say. Poor guy. Sleeping on my lap most of the afternoon.

This neutering process has demonstrated some cultural divides between Uganda and America. When I answered Adams’ question the operation was going to cost me 200,000UGx, ($65 US but 1/4 my monthly salary here) he said “There are sick people in the village who can’t afford the transport to the clinic for 10,000 UGx” That made me ponder. Am I being the rich self-indulgent American? I mentioned this to Stephanie, the PCV who referred me to the vet. Stephanie pointed out that Ugandans easily will blow at least 1 million UGx on a one night Introduction. An Introduction is a huge ritual party in which the two families of an engaged couple are introduced to each other. It’s bigger than the wedding, Everyone brings gifts. I suppose that gift part is like an American bridal shower. (One day maybe I’ll research whether there is a cultural equivalent to a Bachelor/Bachelorette party) So it’s a matter of cultural priority I suppose. It did make my vet expense less guilt-ridden. Of course there are many who can not afford either an Introduction or transport to the clinic.

To cap this discussion off, it reminded me to look at a budget Matthews had given me last month of his own daughter’s Introduction ceremony on April 7. When people want you to contribute to a wedding or an Introduction or a graduation party, they give you their budget. We are trained to say “Nkola Nacheerwa (I work as a volunteer). The Peace Corps only gives me enough to barely feed myself” Still, Matthews is my bud! He had to sell a heifer to pay for his hernia operation back in November. He had to pay for his son’s burial, followed by a bout with typhoid and as discussed below, death of a nephew. School has finally started and he had to pay fees for another daughter, which includes boarding. He is stretched bad. His Introduction budget is 2.5 million UGx. I guess we will see how it all shakes out.

Stand fast ended Sunday. Election coverage is in my email notice. I continue to be challenged getting out to villages to meet with farmer groups. Meital said, to lessen my dependence on Matthews, I can use other trainers as co-counterparts and have a boda waiver as long as I send her pictures of their licenses for the file. Unfortunately, none of the other guys are licensed. Adams said it was a big expensive deal to get one for Matthews. No matter, the annual contracts of all the trainers and Janet expired at the end of January. They were working for free during February to finalize annual reports and hope for extended funding. Williams and Janet went home to their families in Kampala, Moses and Emma are still in town. Adams hopes to get new funding for projects to have them back soon. Peace Corps has referred us to a USAID-supported funder to work with maize farmers, and that is in the works.

The funder who financed ATEFO before wants us to intensify the training for 50 out of our 148 farmer groups in Bugiri District. Clearly for these 50, the trainers will need to teach as well as collect VSLA data. I can only do a set of programs for 5 groups at a time. I told Adams I want to do more “teaching the trainers”. This intensification might not kick in until September however. While that is not good for the trainers, Matthews is on a two year contract and I’m not an expense, so we can still get out there now ourselves. It will enable me to work on our programs so I can better pass them on. These lessons aren’t really that long and they will take half the time without an interpreter.

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I am comforted by the presence of my neighbor to leave my barred windows open while I’m at work so Meowri can go in and out. Only he can fit!

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Old tires provided endless amusement

On the Sunday afternoon before elections, taking a walk around town, there were a few of these percussion heavy bands banging away and having a good time

On the Sunday afternoon before elections, taking a walk around town, there were a few of these percussion heavy bands banging away and having a good time

A good as a drum circle outside a Phish concert

As good as a drum circle outside a Phish concert

After I put down my vinyl flooring in August, I stashed a $100 bill under a part of it. It would have paid for my whole trip last month. I thought the rag paper was indestructible! No Ugandan bank nor money exchange will take it, so I will have to send it home to be exchanged. My personal passport was also hidden on another part of the flooring and I need to make an appointment with the US Embassy to get a replacement. So stupid not to put them in baggies. I also was issued a special Peace Corps passport which is kept at headquarters. I need both passports to leave and return to Uganda.

After I put down my vinyl flooring in August, I stashed a $100 bill under a part of it. It would have paid for my whole trip last month. I thought the rag paper was indestructible! No Ugandan bank nor money exchange will take it, so I will have to send it home to be exchanged. My personal passport was also hidden on another part of the flooring. I need to make an appointment with the US Embassy to get a replacement. So stupid not to put them in baggies. I also was issued a special Peace Corps passport which is kept at headquarters. I need both passports to leave and return to Uganda.

From my permagarden a few weeks ago. Yesterday I dug up more. I sure them with my neighbors

From my permagarden a few weeks ago. Yesterday I dug up more. I share them with my neighbors

Just before I posted this, Meowri had sufficiently recovered enough to back into the hunt. This is some kind of giant cockroach kind of bug. First time I had seen one. Meowri caught a little frog in my unit Sunday. I finally had to take the skeleton away form her.

Just before I posted this, Meowri had sufficiently recovered enough to get back into the hunt, but still feeble. It kept him busy for awhile. I don’t if he succeeded. This is some kind of large cockroach kind of bug. First time I had seen one. Meowri caught a little frog in my unit Sunday. I finally had to take the skeleton away from her, I mean him.

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Temps in the 90’s for the first time since I arrived. Only two short rain bursts in the month of February. Probably at least a few more weeks of dry season. The goats enjoy the shade.

Matthews was gone since before the election until today. His 34 year old nephew passed on last week. They believe it was a combination of malaria and typhoid, but they don’t really seem to know. So he finally returned today. I knew he would have a bunch of chores piled up around the office and Adams’ fields, so it was a good day to host the vet, stay home with Meowri and work on this blog.