Monthly Archive: May 2016

Keep On Working

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Matthews had loaned his helmet to someone else. I have armored pants but don’t always wear them.

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Staff meeting at ATEFO. They have a new contract working with maize farmers

I hope you all had a good Memorial Day Weekend. It has been noted that out of 200,000 volunteers since the start of Peace Corps in 1962, 301 have died in service.

For my Memorial Day, I invested in a bit of data and watched the second half of game 7 of the Golden State v. Oklahoma City series, starting at 5:00 a.m. Tuesday. It was the first basketball I had seen in a year. The Denver Nuggets had two great rookies this year, but I haven’t seen them play yet.

The commercials startle me with how comparatively affluent America is. A PSA was shown promoting little league basketball. Oh how nice it would be if every town in Uganda had a gym like that for the kids.
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Hopefully, with the burial, typhoid, special classes, the two weeks preparing for the Introduction and Wedding behind him, Matthews is going to be able to take me to the villages on a more consistent basis. We are checking back on certain groups to see how much they retained or implemented from previous lessons on record keeping. While this process can be frustrating, I do believe I can find an “early adapter” or two in each farmer group. That might be the best I can hope for. I tell the groups that in both Uganda and America, the most successful families are careful and disciplined with their spending. Keeping track of your money, and planning is the pathway to prosperity.
In the meantime, I am advising the incoming President of the Bugiri Rotary Club about ways to increase its presence in the community and encouraging member attendance. A big challenge is collecting dues, which are around US$150 per year. We also want to have a bigger presence in the local secondary schools. As I am getting more acquainted with members, some have great back stories of overcoming adversity. I am going to try to get a few them to inspire the youth groups with their stories, and I hope to share some on this blog.

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Remember that post with the two cows plowing? I was amazed to find the progress they had made the other day planting sweet potatoes. Margaret is a teacher and the the schools are on holiday. I chided Azedy, but he says he was getting up at 5 a.m. and doing his share.

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But they still have a way to go! Matthews helped me plant spinach, carrots and cabbage in my permagarden at the office. I want to make spinach salad so bad…

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While Matthews translated what I just said, I walked around and took this photo of a recent group.

Wedding Song

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Matthews’s sister Eunice, Groom and daughter Nikki, Matthews, his brother Fred, me.

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One of the photos that were printed to be sold. I forgot a tie! I am holding her gift, a pair of women’s gardening gloves I bought at Walgreens before I left.

In a previous post, I wrote about attending the Introduction and Giveaway ceremony in a village near Kamuli for Matthews’ daughter. The following Sunday I attended the wedding and reception in Jinja. As weddings go, it was pretty similar to American weddings. It was held in a Seventh Day Adventist church. During and after the wedding there were three photographers taking pictures. I was asked to pose in many of them even though I had not met anyone before, except Matthews and his brother and son.
The reception was a bit different from what I am accustomed to in America. It was held in large room in a school about a mile away from the church. Chairs were set up in crowded rows and there were tables and chairs set up on the stage for the Wedding party. Thus guests could not move about and socialize like at an American wedding reception. While we were getting settled, the three wedding photographers were circulating and selling prints of the photos they had taken less an hour earlier. In the front, two different choral groups alternated with songs, although even the vocals were mostly pre-recorded. There was much choreography, pantomiming the stories they sang.
At the Introduction, Matthews’ father and I were brought our plates of food while everyone else got in buffet lines. At the reception, (Matthews’ father didn’t attend) I was served my plate of food but Matthews, the father of the bride, had to get in line. Being a grey bearded American sort of has it’s advantages, but it’s embarrassing to be so singled out. I just have to be gracious. As happens often, everyone ate with their plates on their laps. Most eat with their fingers; the soft American was brought a fork. There are rarely napkins except in restaurants that serve Western food. Instead we pour water over our fingers before and after eating. The meals at these functions are always the same: Rice, Matoke, a small piece of meat with gristle (beef, goat or chicken), g-nut sauce, Irish potatoes and sweet potatoes.
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I hope you are not sick of cute kids pictures

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The Bride knelt before her husband to feed him cake and then knelt in front of the first couple of rows to offer cake.

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Entertainment!

Introduction and Giveaway Ceremony

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There was a comedic M.C on each side providing commentary and moving things along. Our M.C. is in the foreground, the groom’s side M.C. sits behind the basin.

A Ugandan tradition is the Introduction and Giveaway Ceremony.  The groom and his family and friends are introduced to the Bride’s family and friends, culminating in the bride being given away to the groom.  It seems as big as the wedding itself. For his daughter’s ceremony, Matthews said I needed to be there by 10 a.m.  to socialize a bit beforehand, before it was to start at 1 p.m.  As usual in “Uganda time” the groom’s people didn’t even show up until 4 p.m. Matthews’ father sat next to me, translated, and tried to explain the ceremony.  I had to leave at 5:30 p.m. before the bride even came out and was still was not able to get home until well after dark at 9:30 p.m.

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Four dancing “nurses” approach the groom’s people as they arrive.They said they had checked everyone’s health and they were fine, except one man, the groom, who suffered the “sickness of love”. The groom’s people had to wait, and entered through the orange arch in the pouring rain. Serves them right for being so late. Rain stopped after they were seated!

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An “aunty” came out carrying wood, and said she had forgotten the Introduction was that day and had to get things organized.

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before the festivities began, the preparation of three big vats of matoke, made from green plantains. Matoke is a staple of any social gathering with food in Uganda.

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Various groups came dancing out to meet the groom’s family.

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These two girls came out, and in response to something an M.C. asked, said something I didn’t understand except the word “Muzungu” (white person). Everyone turned and looked at me and laughed. As near as I can understand, in response to whether they were enjoying themselves, one of them said yes because even a Muzungu was present.

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A selfie with Matthews’ father, who is 80 y.o. Besides his own seven children, he had to raise the children of two brothers who had died. He complained that he suffered to pay all their school fees, and now none of them will ever visit. I was praising Matthews skill as a gardener, so he requested I bring Matthews to his home at Jinja where he has land, so Matthews can give him advice.

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“Meanwhile, back at the ranch”, Azedy hired these two men to plow behind his compound. So much of the level of development is like the Old West of America. Instead of horses and carriages though, it’s boda bodas and taxis.

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Some of my new neighbor kids. This is the view across the street from my compound.

Educate Club at National Finals

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The Bukooli College display. Ironically a selling point for the blue liquid soap is the an added ingredient to kill bed bugs.

IMAG3280The Educate Club of Bukooli College was one of 16 Educate Clubs to participate in the finals of a national competition in Kampala, They displayed goods they make, and answered questions from judges. I went to observe their preparations on Thursday. At that point I did not think I would be allowed to go . After I arrived on Saturday, I learned the team was housed in a dorm of a local secondary school. Unfortunately the boys room was plagued by bed bugs and they didn’t get much sleep. They were not looking forward to returning to the dorm that night.

One of the three founders of Educate Clubs was in attendance and gave a speech. She said she was raised in a tough inner city environment by her single mother in New York City. Another speaker said students should not expect to get a job when when they finish school, so they need to learn these entrepreneurial skills. The club acquitted itself well, in my opinion. Their table overflowed with goods. Unfortunately it was not named among the top three.

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Here, members are making necklaces. Beans are soaked in dye overnight and then threaded together, dried, and shellacked in some manner.

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Chalkboards, such as shown below, are made from recycled paper.

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Ronald, who I brought to Youth Technical Training, shows a product to the competition. Ron is an impressive young man with charisma. In the foreground, are scented solids to rub on your skin to stop mosquitoes. Everything is made from items they get for free or next to nothing.

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The club has to show its skills at record keeping for its sales.

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A view of the campus at Bukooli College. There are three three story classroom buildings in addition to other buildings.

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In contrast, this is a three room school house in a deep village which is part of a primary school near Kamuli founded by Matthews’ brother, where I spoke to parents and students. See the three blackboards? The benches had been removed for the parents to sit on. The little brick building in the back is the school’s administrative office.  I am planning to give some presentations and be more involved with secondary students in a similar rustic village near Bugiri.

 

Pictures at an Exhibition

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At the Tororo Rice Exhibition, a plow is demonstrated. They dug up a patch of the park! In the background is a machine that plants four lines of rice seedlings. Note the floaters on the side.

Happy May!

I went with Adams to a rice exhibition in Tororo, which is northeast of Bugiri. I had not visited there before. The main sponsor of the exhibition was International Fertilizer Development Center (IFDC), a Dutch company which has partnered with many NGOs, including ATEFO.  Attendees went from booth to booth, hearing what each exhibit was about. ATEFO had a small table. There should have been more rice farmers mobilized for this, but it was still nice to see what was on display. The representative from IFDC, a gentleman from the UK who lives in Kampala, chatted with me. He reaffirmed a deep frustration that farmers do not keep records. I learned that Uganda is a net importer of rice, due to it’s ranking of 70th out of 78 countries in milled rice yield per hectare  Ugandans work hard but when the President promises to hand out 18 million hoes for election in the year 2016, it’s hard to compete. A few different people approached and told me we had met before, at one of the farmer groups, or some function. Ugh, it’s hard to remember everyone I have met!

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ATEFO’s man in Tororo talks about financial literacy

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The booths reminded me of the competitive exhibits of the Educate Club Youth Group. So there is a practical application.

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The exhibits were judged and ATEFO finished 5th. All the prizes were bags of IFDC Fertilizer.

The Currents Will Shift

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This is the front of my new place, with the traffic of pedestrians and untethered goats.

In Uganda when you move to another house, you “shift”. I shifted this past weekend.
Typically, a tenant here pays three months rent in advance. I was just completing my third three month term at the end of April. There had been some break-ins in my neighborhood, and Matthews was always concerned I could be a target. Both Matthews and my Iganga father Simon did not like the low easily accessible walls around my compound. Adams was also unhappy with my landlord. When I arrived in August, Adams wanted a written lease. My landlord is illiterate, however, so he refused to sign (put his thumbprint on) anything. He recently decided to raise my rent when Adams felt he had it fixed for my duration.
While I was at Youth Technical training, Matthews called to say he wanted to show me a new place to move. I also received an email from my language tutor Azedy, who has become a good friend, and he mentioned he had available separate living quarters with three rooms at his home compound. It turned out to be the same place Matthews wanted me to see. It looked good, and was the same rate, but needed the cement flooring to be finished and smoothed out along with paint and varnish. A previous tenant had lived there for awhile in its roughed-in state. So after being a bit indecisive, I gave the word Thursday, a Peace Corps representative inspected it on Friday, and I shifted Sunday afternoon. While before, I was about a kilometer north of my office, now I am 1/2 kilometer, at most, west of the office. In fact, when I go about 100 yards from my place to the road, you can see my office. This place is also near the Gilgard Guesthouse, where Bugeri Rotary meets, and Bukooli College, where my Educate Club Youth Group meets.
On Saturday, with Azedy’s help, I wrote a little speech in Lusoga on a card to explain to the mothers on my route I would not be passing by any more and fist bumping and swinging their kids who run out to the road to greet me. But I will try to come by every so often. I told my next door neighbor kids I would pay 5,000 shillings if they were ever able to find and corral Meowri for me. I will probably return this weekend to say good bye to my bore hole manager, and also to Godfrey, the preacher at the church across the street. I will miss Godfrey and his efforts to save me. I will miss the church music on Sundays too.
Last year, I had moved out of my suburban home into a two bedroom Denver condo, so this was comparatively easy, yet somehow it still was a full weekend getting ready. Simon and Hellen came with his truck Sunday afternoon to help out. I brought Faizal along and Simon brought two boys with him. My carpenter Mwando kindly took apart my bed and and then reassembled it for me. We were finished in two trips. I even took all of my vinyl flooring along. The cement needs more time to dry, so I have stuff all piled up off the floor as much as possible. It might be at least a week like this. I’m going to stay home as much as possible so I can open the windows to help the drying. But once it gets dark, you have to close up due to the mosquitoes. It gets humid then. The first night I laid in bed and thought it seemed really strange. No wonder, I realized I hadn’t installed my mosquito net! That reminded me to also set up my middle of the night pee bucket :-). Nicer house, but I am still in Uganda.
As the pictures show, this is a pretty nice property. Almost “Posh Corps”except I still don’t have running water. Azedy is a teacher working part-time at the moment, while his wife Margaret is a full time teacher. Simon recognized Margaret from grading P-7 final exam papers together in Kampala. They have five boys. Margaret said they gave up trying to produce a girl. Three are in boarding schools outside of Bugeri. Living at home is Aiyeman Fayed, soon to be six,starting P-1 in January, and one year old Aimre. The only other resident here is Maria, who acts as a nannie and helps with various chores.
The family invited me to a “welcome” dinner Tuesday night. I heard the chicken getting slaughtered so it was pretty fresh meat! I realized later I should have volunteered to help pick out the feathers. In Uganda they will offer the guest of honor the gizzard, but it is OK to decline, which I did. I learned that Azedy, who was raised as a Muslim near Iganga, was the 8th of his mother’s ten children and the first male. His mother was one of five wives of his father, who ultimately produced 50 children. Ugandans always point out the easy acceptance and frequency of divorce in America, but are never too disconcerted about polygamy.

Over all, I think this was a good shift.

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On the left side of Azedy’s home is the door to access my place, A thief would need to scale that wall too.

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The front of my place with doors and windows open to help the cement dry.

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Azedy and Margaret’s place. There are unfinished rooms inside. Slowly but slowly. The garage has no car, but it is Azedy’s next dream. He also has needed a computer since we met. He would send me emails from an internet cafe in town.

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This is Aiyeman Fayed, who is very curious about his dad’s friend. He’s wearing a Denver Nuggets t-shirt. I met him last fall while Azedy tutored me, and he had a Hooters t-shirt, with the famed “Owl Eyes.” I thought it was amusing anyway.

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This is a small courtyard in the back with several things to note. Bottom left is a water tap. No more lugging Jerry cans from a public bore hole. Margaret says it holds steady during dry season but doesn’t work when the power is out. I still need my Jerry cans,  but I just carry them about thirty feet. Above the tap are clothes lines with the first clothes pins I have seen in Uganda. The tree is one of two lemon trees and I may help myself. Behind the tree is a wall in front of an open bathing stall with no door (I have my own in my home). To the right of the stall are three pit latrines. I get my own padlocked pit latrine! On the rear left is a deep hole to receive water from the bathing stall. I’m not sure if this is a good situation for the one year old as he starts to wander.