After we left Fort Portal we dove ten hours on Hoima Road to Murchison Falls. It is a very bumpy dirt road. PCV David calls it “Puke Road”, a fair appellation. Our driver John said we were getting an “African Massage”. At Murchison Falls, we stayed at Pakuba Safari Lodge in the heart of the park. Nearby, there are sprawling, over-grown ruins of the original lodge complex. The current lodge and our accommodations were built out from the original servant’s quarters.
As this article explains, the Pakuba Safari Lodge became a favorite haunt of Idi Amin, who turned it into a “State Lodge”, his private retreat. He did hunting from there, nearly decimating the entire elephant population. Now his haunt is sort of haunted. The cited article does not indicate how this site got destroyed. The manager of the newer lodge told me, after Amin was toppled, the remnants of his troops destroyed it as they were being chased by the advancing troops loyal to his successor, Obote. My driver John disagrees, saying it was attacked and shelled because of a mistaken belief Amin was there.
We stayed three nights, and John took us over to the ruins every time we went out or returned. He knew there were leopard(s) there. We were fortunate to see a lounging hyena on one trip and the leopard you see above on another trip.
It had a swimming pool too. That’s the Nile in the distance.The tiling looks like it is still in good shape, since the 70’s. The newer resort has finished and filled a new pool but needs to finish landscaping. It’s already hosted baboons and a hippo.
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Hyena
If its true the leopard was keeping cubs, wouldn’t this hyena on the other side make her nervous?
The tiling is exquisite
This is the original shot of the leopard at the top of the post, which is only zoomed in halfway.
Full zoom- Different colored eyes. In a few weeks it’s back to more writing, crummy cheap smart phone pictures.
This is the newly built lodge where we stayed. Posh Corps! And this was actually “Moderate” rate on the choices John presented us. Food was fantastic.