Tag Archive: travel

Running Through the Jungle

It felt good to be able to relax after the camp, and do some sight seeing with Karen and David. Not to mention a roomy safari vehicle, and a step up from the backpacker dorms. I had transitioned quickly into full-blown Western Tourist. After half a day of travel north, we stayed at Chimpanzee Forest Guest House in Kibale National Forest Park for two nights.

Morning near our lodge. Dave enjoys landscapes but he got a rush “capturing” animals too.

On our first day, we enjoyed a hike through the forest looking for Chimpanzees. At times we left the trail, even running pell mell after a chimp as he moved.I was worried I would trip over a vine on the floor, but it was an exhilarating experience. This particular group is admittedly habituated to humans (thousands in the park are not).

They can sit on the thinnest branches

We followed this one quite a while, then he laid on a log as if to say “snap away”


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Such agility! We only saw one monkey. Chimps will hunt and eat monkeys.

This is pretty high up. I zoomed the photo.

A common pose for Dave. I would see them with the naked eye, but have a hard time picking them up with my binoculars.

When we returned the guide showed us a photo album of the chimps we saw, including their role in the family hierarchy.

 

Like John the Baptist

Kayaking on the Nile during Nile River Fest in Jinja

Last  month, I took a nine day trip, staying at six different places for two different functions. I hate living out of my backpack.

First, I traveled to the town of Kazo, in Western Uganda. Kazo is the home of the Blue House, which is a girls orphanage supported by my sister Karen for many years.

The Blue House was founded by a native Ugandan, Beatrice, who was living with her husband in St. Paul MN. After being away 17 years, she made a few trips back to her hometown of Kazo. She came to bury her brothers, and was appalled by the scourge of AIDs in her community. Several little girls in town were particularly vulnerable – orphaned with no family support or shelter. Beatrice found an old shop for them, made repairs, and hired a caretaker. With an estimated 200 needy orphans in the vicinity, Beatrice decided to build dorms, a kitchen, dining hall and latrines. She purchased eight acres outside of town for this purpose.

Beatrice returned to America to raise funds, utilizing her St. Paul church and local connections. In 2004, just as this was underway, Beatrice suddenly and unexpectedly died. The USA Board of Directors decided not to let her passing deter their efforts. Today, the Blue House supports 40 orphaned girls. The ones who live at the dorm walk to the local schools and their school fees are covered. The Blue House also pays the school fees for eight others, who live in town with their relatives. Further, it still supports a few girls who grew up at the Blue House and are now at University or vocational schools. Blue House also built a vocational sewing school on its land, with 22 students from Kazo town, including one from Blue House..

Karen has just completed her term as the President of the USA Board, and has visited the Blue House twice. She is coming to Uganda next week with her husband Dave (his first trip to here) to visit me in Bugiri, and then we travel to Kazo.

I have recruited four other Peace Corps volunteers.to meet us in Kazo. We are going to meet with local Kazo farmers, do some financial literacy lessons, and dig a town demonstration permagarden. We will also teach how to make Reusable Menstrual Pads (RUMPs) at the vocational sewing school. The next day, we will put on a day camp for the Blue House girls, including RUMPs lessons for the older girls, and dig another permagarden.

I am so grateful to get the help from other PCVs. We are all in the same cohort and they are all good friends. We are on our last six or so months, so this will be a fun weekend for us too.

My preview visit last month was to find potential permagarden locations, meet the staff and girls (precious-each one came up and curtseyed) and get introduced to town leaders to explain our plans and get their support.  I spent one night in each of the local guesthouses to pick one for our “muzungu invasion”. The director of Blue House, Aine, said I was “like John the Baptist, preparing the way.”

When our time in Kazo is finished, Karen, Dave and I plan to travel another week in Western Uganda on vacation, with visits to many places I haven’t been able to see yet. So the rest of March is going to be exciting.
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After my scouting trip to Kazo, I returned to Kampala to participate in a panel and a workshop for the entire Peace Corps Uganda staff, and representatives from volunteer support groups in Diversity, Peer Support, LGBTQ, and Sexual Harassment. It was called Intercultural Diversity and Inclusion (ICD&I) training. In other words, sensitivity training, (I can just sense some eye rolls out there). It was really cool, actually. We can all use some self-awareness enlightenment.

I am an elected representative from my cohort for one of the four support groups. However, the Country Director Sean wanted my panel participation to be from the perspective of an older volunteer. My cohort friend Aruna represented first generation Americans (In  my cohort besides Aruna from Sudan, we’ve had volunteers born in India, Sri Lanka, Nigeria and Belarus- more than  the number of elder volunteers.)

I almost didn’t post this. I look so fat. I am still 30 pounds lighter than diabetes weight, but 20 more than my skinny low a year ago. It looks like man boobs too. This was my panel. CD Sean is upper left. Aruna is front right, and next to him is Sam from Littleton and CSU. Back row second from right is Anita from Denver. She went to a magnet school at DPS. Three out ten from Colorado!

Panelists were asked to speak about how they were marginalized or empowered by Peace Corps staff, other volunteers and/or in the country. There were some heartbreaking presentations. Hearing a school assembly chant “Kill the Gays”… the constant sexual harassment of the female PCVs (100% here- I admire their courage for what they have to endure here- although they are not unique from Ugandan women.)…. a black volunteer being a disappointment to his assigned town and marginalized because it did not get a white American… If you are an Asian-American volunteer, people shout “Jackie Chan” or “Ching Chong” and want you to show off your martial arts moves.

Teaching youth in a village while a mom next to me makes a mat.

Well as a panelist, amidst these stories, what could I say? Paul Sulley, who just became the Country Director in Jamaica, once met with the older volunteers during training (The Fossils!). He said we probably would not be invited for certain social events, but we had an opportunity to be a positive influence on these ‘kids’. So yes, there have been some comparatively minor slights, likely not intentional (that’s where the sensitivity training comes in!), and I try to be a good, but cool,  “in loco parentis.”

But in fact, I have not really been marginalized. The younger volunteers and Ugandan staff treat me well. In my town and throughout Uganda I have massive privilege as an older white American male. I am a celebrity with the neighbor kids. I attract good parental turnout when I speak to schools. More farmers show up to listen. On the crowded taxis, the elderly are often ushered up to the coveted front row by the conductor. (I admit I exploit this, because my knees take a beating otherwise). Sometimes before I can get in a food line at a dinner, someone brings a plate to my seat. I received immediate respect from my org and my supervisor. Of course I try not to act like a condescending jerk either. The other white male PCVs are generally privileged too, except fresh out of college, they might have to earn some respect from the older men in their communities. So I was honest on the panel about my status, and saw a lot of nodding in agreement by the Ugandan staff.  I can’t feel bad, it is what it is. Sean thought it was a good.

I also enjoyed different conversations that particular weekend with our Country Director Sean, the new Deputy Director Karen, and my supervisor Meital, about possible Peace Corps- related options for me when it is time for my service to end in six months. I am really trying to get my impending future figured out, since time is slipping away.

Local kids play video games at a shop near my house.

1/2 Full

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Ugandan dawn over the pitch. There are up to 25 players in my morning workouts, so the coach splits us into two groups for the drills and exercises. The other group wore the fluorescent green bibs.

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I followed these two cute kids the other day…

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Hump day It’s hard to believe in some ways, but Friday, July 15, was Hump Day. I have been in Uganda for 13 ½ months, and 13 ½ months remain in my service. They always say the process of integration and adjustment can take a year. I am hopeful I can make a better and more lasting impact on my community before I leave. It’s hard to appreciate changes I might be influencing on the farmers’ customary sustenance-only approach, but I will continue to monitor this. You hope to change the behavior of early-adapters, show success, and then the rest of the village will buy in. The grant I was awarded to teach sack gardens is small, and the Peace Corps says I can’t get another grant until that money is consumed (i.e. construct 19-20 sack gardens, plus evaluations of their adaptation by the villages).
In the meantime, I hope to help the Bugiri Rotary Club achieve at least one major project. The Bugiri community has so many needs, and the Club needs to tap into Rotary International Foundation funding. It must develop international partnerships with other Clubs. There is a bit a stumbling, as this new club finds its way.

Dizzy in the head…In an effort to learn why I have occasional spells of dizziness, I’ve had occasion to go to Kampala twice in recent weeks for further tests, including ultrasound scans of my thyroid, an MRI of my brain, and seeing two outside specialists. The Peace Corps Medical Office is top notch, and very aggressive in trying to figure this out. The consensus conclusion is that I have Benign Positional Vertigo. In other words, none of the scans showed anything scary, and it’s probably not harmful. It’s just something I have to get used to. In fact, I do think it is better, with less frequent episodes.

Aruna update While I was in Kampala last week, I was pleased to spend time with my friend Aruna, one of the Lost Boys of Sudan, whose story I told over a year ago, and whose refugee camp we recently visited. Aruna had just returned from his home in Portland Maine, where he got surgery for a torn MCL. He injured it on a four hour bicycle ride. He was gone for nearly the 45 day maximum time you are allowed to recuperate before Peace Corps “Early Terminates” you.
In the two years preceding the Peace Corps, Aruna sent his earnings to South Sudan to pay for building a new home for his parents in their family’s village. The home had been destroyed in fighting when Aruna was child, leading to his epic tale of survival with his brothers, eventually walking to Uganda where he lived in a camp until being relocated to Portland. South Sudan is on the brink of civil war again. As I write this, there is a fragile cease fire. Uganda has evacuated its citizens, and tens of thousands of new refugees have crossed the northern border of Uganda. Unfortunately, while Aruna was in Portland, there was fighting in his family’s village again, and the new house was heavily damaged. His parents were temporarily relocated to yet another camp, but now have returned to the village, which is now under control of the South Sudanese army. They think they can repair the house. A brother who did not relocate to Portland is available to assist them. Aruna says it was probably for the best he was back in Maine while this was happening. He would have been tempted to join the fighting “now that I am not a child”. But as I quizzed him with my limited understanding of the situation, he admitted he wasn’t sure which side he would join. Probably determined by clan or tribe, I suppose.

Malaria update- In the last few weeks, Matthews, and three of the kids (one came home from school) that live on my compound got malaria. It is so common for everyone. I switched meds as part of my anti-dizziness regimen.  So far, half way through service, no malaria, although I wonder what the drugs are doing to my liver as they kill the parasites. I worry more about getting hit by a boda boda.

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Refuse burning day in my neighborhood. Gag.

ED is characterized by the inability to maintain erection. purchase levitra More viagra prices check that storefront so, the purpose of a distance learning M. So the victims of more acquisition de viagra matured age and the persons whose body capacity reached to lower degree due to the attack of some physical disorders can consume this lowest measure to get themselves free from impotency. If these infections are not thoroughly unica-web.com purchase cialis online cured, the infections will develop chronic. Al Jazeera came to Bukooli College- Last week, the Educate Club from Bukooli College was visited by a film crew doing a series on innovative education. The series will be shown on Al Jazeera.  The main focus was on the Reusable Menstrual Pads (RUMPS) that they make as an Income Generating Activity. This is also a big thing for Heath PCVs and I promise a future post on it. A representative form the Educate Club’s main offices in Kampala, Rachel is a recent graduate from the University of Denver School of International Studies. Always good to meet a fellow D.U. alum.

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Heh- they interrupted a class so they could interview the Educate Club’s patron Martin (my adult from Youth Technical Training) with a class in the background. D.U. grad Rachel holds the mic.

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The film crew learns about RUMPS

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Sign on a tree at Bukooli College. Would this sign be posted in an American High School?

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I was happy to find a great Mexican restaurant, Que Pasa, near my hostel in Kampala. It had been a long time since I had Mexican food, and this place would fit right in at Capital Hill or Boulder. It is owned by an Australian!

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A touch of my past: ReMax in Uganda! Jan was a ReMax broker for 15 years before she was a nurse.

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A very pregnant lady in one of my villages.

 

 

Parting Ways

It’s been awhile. I have been busy, and attending last week’s Youth Technical Training (YTT).
Before I get to that in the next post, I am distressed to report that Meowri has left me. A couple of weekends ago, I went to Jinja for two nights, staying with about 30 PCVs in dorms next to the Nile River. I had left my barred window open to allow Meowri to come and go. When I returned Sunday, I was disturbed to see the window had been closed and the food I left inside was not eaten. The neighbors claimed they fed him, but in any event, he was gone. I wasn’t too concerned because cats usually come back after a few days. However, after three days home, I needed to take care of some business in Kampala, come back one night, and then attend YTT in Jinja for a week. When I returned Saturday, the neighbor kids lead me to the body of a decomposing cat in a small nearby forest. Not Meowri (whew), but “ Meowri’s friend”, they said.
On Sunday I was finally able to talk to a girl at her nearby compound, where the kids claimed Meowri was. She said indeed Meowri is staying there. This is a four unit compound behind very high walls. Only one unit is finished, however, and like everywhere else in Uganda, the other three are just shells of bricks. She borrowed my flashlight and took my basket, scampering up into the rafters and disappeared. No way was I going to attempt that high wire act. We both called, but Meowri did not come. (Cats are like that). So I have nothing definitive. I left my basket with her. A lady entered as i was leaving and said there were a number of cats that lived there. Maybe Meowri prefers this company to mine. But I want to take him home and give him a choice. I also want to see if he’s been hurt at all. The family in the compound is often not there.

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Neighborhood search party!


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Sunset on the NIle with monkey

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When you travel between the larger towns, the taxi will stop in the smaller towns to allow the local vendors to shove drinks, crackers, sis-ka-bob meat sticks etc. at you

No Syrians Here (Yet)

IMAG2996I am now in a routine of presenting programs to four farmer groups each week. In a Thursday farmer group, I gave my first talk about keeping household budgets as a way to control spending, In the USA, where I suspect written household budgets are rare, I helped families with budgets required in connection with their bankruptcy filings. Here, where a man has multiple wives, I recommend keeping multiple home budgets. I hope it promotes trust and harmony between the families. There is often suspicion the husband is favoring one family over the other, so best to work together and lock in the amounts. I asked how many men have more than one wife. Almost all ten men in the group raised their hands and sort of shrugged about it.. I ignore the moral dilemma this presents to supposed Christians (Muslims claim their faith allows it), but observe that the culture of polygamy typically increases the number of children, and hence adds to the strain on their limited resources

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This is Agnes, my neighbor behind our office, sifting and picking her rice, a common sight in the third world. Here she is picking out small stones. I eat lots of rice in restaurants and I automatically check for pebbles with my tongue before I chew. My rice cooker is used for noodles.

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Here is Agnes at mid-flip. I never knew why they did this. It separates out the lighter husk remnants which catch the breeze. Sure enough they were on the ground by her.

On an off day, I was invited to speak at another primary school near Mbale, where one of Matthews’ sons is a teacher. I was stunned by the size of the crowd of parents jammed into a class room just to hear me. I am evolving a decent stump speech for these occasions.
Whenever I ask for questions, I get some variation of “We have such a need of your knowledge and skills, how can we get more Peace Corps volunteers?” I respond that 200 Peace Corps volunteers in a country of 38 million are stretched pretty thin. I lament that my country has far more resources devoted to endless unsuccessful military engagements. I just read that the Department of Defense is the world’s largest employer, with more than 1.3 million men and women on active duty and 742,00 civilian personnel. This compares to 220,000 total Peace Corps volunteers over 55 years. I tell them I wish my country could begin to flip this priority, but with our two likely militaristic candidates, it will not change with our elections this year.

The parents should donate their own knowledge, skills and resources. Volunteer to help at school by helping a group with reading, tend to the school garden, help with maintenance or any number of non-monetary contributions.

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Chicks painted pink! Easter is coming! Friday and Monday are public holidays.

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Two poor goats are stuffed under the rear seat of a taxi

I also spoke to two classrooms of children, one of them P1 through P4 and the other P5- and P6. Here is a brief video showing how the classes in Uganda always greet their visitors. Besides asking them to appreciate the sacrifices their parents make to ensure their education, I stress how important it is to always do your best, and get in the habit of being honest, the two qualities I wanted from my own children.

For a secondary project, I am establishing a relationship with a youth group called the “Education Club” at Bakooli College (high school), which is within walking distance of my office. The club seemed to be the group with the most goals and activities congruent with what I am doing. I am also hoping to make it a Rotary Interact Club, so it can get needed support from the Bugiri Rotary Club. The teacher/adviser and a boy and girl from this group will accompany me to Youth Technical Training for a week in late April, in Jinja. I turned down an offer to form a youth group in a deep village because of the unreliability of my transportation, but I am going to meet the head teacher to see about presenting some programs there.
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This is pretty typical of the refugee compounds. Almost all of them had been swept clean.

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In front of the primary school.with Tom, Ryan.and Aruna. Definitely an upgrade compared to village schools.

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Aruna stands with his “uncle” who came to the camp in 2002, a couple of years after Arruna’s arrival, , and a childhood friend. Just like Aruna’s older brother, the uncle was involuntarily conscripted into the Sudanese army, and escaped when he got the opportunity, later sending for his wife. The situation has not gotten much more secure all these years later.

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A cute chicken coop at Aruna’s uncle’s place. Recently they got a disease and all died.

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Sign near the entrance

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Playing pool outdoors. Tom and Ryan have seen this in other villages.

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These tents are temporary shelters for new arrivals

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After the camp we took a took a trip to the shores of Lake Allen, which marks Uganda’s western border with the Democratic Republic of the Congo. The water looked awful. I would not eat fish from here.

Last Friday, I traveled all day to Homia on the western side of Uganda. There, I met Aruna, my PCV friend and former Lost Boy of Sudan, and two other PCVs, Tom and Ryan. We visited the refugee camp from Aruna’s childhood, which I wrote about in one of my first blog posts.. It was an interesting and enlightening experience. Unlike my assumptions of teeming refugees living in squalor, the place was nicer than the villages I go to. Clusters of huts are scattered throughout, and plenty of land for farming is available. It is not surprising that some have been there more than 20 years. This camp has 22,000 refugees, about twice as many as when Aruna was there. The vast majority are Congolese. The photos tell the story.

Happy Shiny People

I have returned from traveling near Kampala for the annual All Volunteers Conference (“All Vol”) and then a trip with PCVs Karen and Dave to their sites, Queen Elizabeth National Park, and Lake Bunyoni. A separate blog post for each, posted so you can read chronologically.

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This is Annie, who arrived with the November 2014 Education cohort. She was a classmate and friend of my son Clark at Westminster’s Stanley Lake High School. Her childhood dream was Peace Corps, specifically in Uganda. Annie is thriving here. Small world, Anna, a health volunteer from my cohort, met her 5th grade teacher Sandy at All Vol. Neither had seen each other since, nor knew the other was in Peace Corps.

 

All Uganda PCVs met from February 1-5 at the same conference center where my June 2015 cohort had supervisors workshop last August, just before swearing in It was an opportunity to renew friendships, and meet many other volunteers for the first time. We received a security briefing in anticipation of the upcoming Presidential and Parliamentary election. Peace Corps has ordered us to “Stand Fast” in our home sites, no traveling, from the 15th to the 29th. Also stay away from polling places and large crowds, which is not easy for me. There are lots of opinions about the potential for violence. It’s a fascinating time here.

We had some training sessions related to “Feed the Future” which underwrote All Vol. If you were in a committee you met with your fellow members to discuss the upcoming year. I am one of two representatives elected from my cohort to a committee which I will explain in my email notification to subscribers. So far my contribution is drafting the committee’s Charter. Yuck, legal work!

In an interesting training attended by various committees, I took one of those psychological tests which identified how you form policies and how to collaborate with others who have differing approaches. No surprise, I am guided strongly by a need for empirical evidence more than any other factor.

Various PVCs provided a smorgasbord of programs of general interest. For example, I went to Becky’s program demonstrating how to make cheese, a rare and expensive commodity in Uganda. It’s incredibly easy to make some with just whole milk some vinegar, and no rennet. I’m going to try it. I also attended a presentation by an ambitious PCV named Steven who plans to stay in Uganda a few more years while he promotes an innovative approach to education. He wants to be the Steve Jobs of East Africa. You read it here first.

The evenings had social activities. I played Texas Hold-’em poker one night, getting eliminated by two “bad beats”. The last night was the annual “Prom”, this year with a disco theme. Raised on 60’s and 70’s rock, I consider disco a low point in music history, if not civilization, but whatever. I decided my lack of original outfit would be called “parental chaperone at prom”. Katie F. says I better do better next year.

Good to see my cohort again, many with mixed results getting work arranged with their orgs. It was also interesting to meet a few other older volunteers and learn about their histories and careers and how they arrived at the Peace Corps.

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This is Anita from my cohort at Prom sporting the 1979 big hair look, with Ray, who made his outfit from campaign materials promoting the President of Rwanda. Everyone wanted to pose with him!

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Left to right, Katie L., Mackenzie (Happy shiny ear ring?), Kelly, and Katie F. all from my cohort

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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A market scene down a narrow street in Kampala, on the way to the taxi park after All Vol.

I continue to be impressed by the young volunteers. They are the cream of crop of America. They are smart, altruistic, and industrious. I am proud to serve with them. I read the other day the USA dropped 24,000 bombs on six Muslim countries in 2015. I would submit Peace Corps has been our best foreign policy, at a fraction of the cost.

What’s for Tea Mum?

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A nearby view from Karen’s place of some of the tea fields. These are actually trees which are kept trimmed into shrubs. After planting they take 3 years before the leaves are tea-worthy, and then they produce every growing season for 100 years. Most of these fields were planted in the early 1960’s. Karen frequently sees baboons, which inhabit the wooded valley below, but they were not around on our day there. A couple of days later we saw baboons on the road to Queen Elizabeth National Park. We did see white-tailed monkeys called Colombus in the plantation’s forest. Couldn’t get good pictures.

 

My fellow fossil David, and still-too-young-to be-a-fossil Karen enjoyed a great week traveling together. Our first stop was the massive tea plantation at Karen’s site. Karen is a Health volunteer recently retired from her career in the Navy as an air traffic controller. She teaches about good, nutrition, HIV and other health topics to the several worker camps spread throughout the plantation.

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This selfie to mark the beginning of our travels was taken upon our arrival by taxi at the closest town to the plantation. Karen needs to summon a car from here to get home

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The field on the right and beyond has been sprayed with ground up limestone to treat algae. This is brand new technology. They will be growing again next season.

 

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Karen stands by her excellent permagarden by her home. It takes drainage from her roof and is double dug and everything. She dug another one at a work camp.

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The tea factory. There were conveyer belts with fans to dry the leaves and then they are ground down, separated by quality, and put in large bags, transported elsewhere to be processed into the tiny tea bags.. There are different grades of tea. They make black tea. Green tea is from the same leaves, just processed differently.

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This is a tasting room. A spittoon in the right foreground. When new employees are interviewed, in the waiting room they are given the choice of coffee, tea, or other drinks. If they don’t select tea they don’t get hired!

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These are the machines to trim the tea trees. Run by two on each side, and a third person with a bag to collect it

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The plantation raises its own eucalyptus trees, which are fast-growing, and used to power the factory with steam energy

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Feeding the boiler

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Karen and her supervisor Elijah at a work camp. In Uganda, no matter where you go, you have to sign a guest book. I have signed dozens of these.

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An artistic representation of a crowded taxi for sale in a hotel in Fort Portal. The tires are bottle caps. I plan to buy one to bring home when I return to America, but it was too delicate to lug and too expensive ($12 US- ha! Uganda!) to get now.

We teased that Karen’s place is “Posh Corps”. She has tremendous views, good electricity, running water, a kitchen similar to a US suburb (both gas and electric burners, gas oven, many cabinets), western style toilet, a nearby club for executives Karen may use (free beer) and even a nearby landing strip. David and I stayed at a guest house a few minutes from Karen’s home. We had a cook and our clothes were laundered.

We walked through the tea fields to the Tea Factory and received a tour. Unfortunately, we were not allowed to take pictures in the factory. Later we enjoyed the free beer at the club and a lively conversation with Karen’s supervisor, Elijah.

Farmer Dave

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On the right is a key hole garden. Dave was growing collard greens, kale and coriander. When he returned after our trip, pigs had escaped their pen and totally destroyed it. He thinks they like kale. On the left is a hugelkulture garden. He buried timbers which soaks up water so the roots continue to be nourished during dry season. It is growing collards, beans and peppers

After two nights at Karen’s tea plantation, we stopped in Fort Portal. It’s the closest big town to Karen and David and gets a lot of tourists on their way to national parks.

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Heh- Super Bowl game face

Karen dislikes football, and chose to stay at a hotel for Sunday night.David has great internet reception at his site, a large demonstration farm on the top of a hill. We went to bed early, and then streamed the Super Bowl beginning at 2:30 a.m. Monday morning.A glorious victory for the Broncos!

David had a career as a graphic designer in the states, though he “woofed” at some farms in recent years (room and board in exchange for labor). He calls Wisconsin his home state, lived in Pittsburgh for many years and most recently he lived in North Carolina He has dug eleven different gardens on his site. (My own permagarden is a disaster in mismanagement and neglect- except for the carrots. Matthews transplanted my cabbage and my broccoli did not grow. I’ll do better next season.)

Dry season is intense out in the west, with only negligible rain since Christmas. Dave’s place had a dry water tank, so no bathing that night.

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Another hugelkulture garden, growing Russian comfrey, which is fed to chickens to make their yolk yellower and eggs tastier.

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David made this with bamboo, called reeds here.. He needs to add Madagascar! When he isn’t researching how to be a concert impresario, he enjoys painting in the evenings.

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Like I do, David greets many children on the trek to his place. Which of us will have the first heart attack from swinging children around ? I usually prefer the fist bumps followed by hand disinfectant 🙂

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David has an ambitious secondary project. He wants to promote a three day
music fest in Fort Portal. beginning on World AIDS day December 1, Anyone who voluntarily tests for HIV two months earlier, will be admitted free.

“Enjoy the Nature”

Following the Super Bowl, David grabbed a couple of hours of sleep (I was too jacked up and wanted to read the media reports) and then we headed back to Fort Portal and rejoined Karen.

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On the way to the park we passed the Equator. The taxi driver and other passengers indulged us with a five minute break to take a picture. Unfortunately the passenger who shot this stuck his finger in the viewfinder and tilted the camera at an angle. My brother Mark has fixed it the best he could.

 

IMAG2812We traveled to Omwani Training Cafe just outside of Queen Elizabeth Park for two nights. It was started by a former Peace Corps volunteer and the lodging and food is half price for PCVs. Local Ag cohort Katie L. met us for fantastic pizza, cooked in clay brick ovens. She introduced her friend, Nicholas, who would be our park guide the next day.

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We did our sightseeing standing up This Peace Corps experience makes me exercise so much!

We set off at 6 a.m. and spent until mid afternoon in the park. The guides would call each other when there was something pretty cool and we would meet other tourist vehicles.

We saw some slow-paced lion drama through binoculars. Two lions went into a brush to hide. A water buffalo stopped nearby to graze. Soon two more lions took up positions on the other side. He was surrounded. The rest of the herd kept going and the buffalo seemed oblivious. Was he old and knew it was his time? Had he lost a fight for dominance and been expelled? He didn’t seem injured. We watched for 45 minutes but there was no attack. The guides thought the lions would bide their time until nightfall. Vultures were flying overhead. No decent pictures of this. It was one time I wish I had a camera with telephoto lens. I had to resist the urge to walk up for a closer shot! They seemed peaceful enough!

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Ugandan Cobb, which is on the flag and the money

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“You should see the other guy”

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The largest nests in the world are built by little birds called Hamacocks. I came up zilch on a fact check, but found a similar bird called a social weaver. residing in South Africa.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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The famed Ugandan Crested Crane. Its also on the flag, and all the money. The national soccer team is the Cranes.

 

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Water Buffalo looking around for their friend.

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Hippos on the shore of the local fishing village within the park..

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I love this picture from the fishing village. If I made a print of this for my wall, should I trim the trash in the foreground, or retain its Ugandan authenticity?

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This is a maribou stork a/k/a “Trash Bird” a/k/a Undertaker Bird at the fishing village. Note what appear to be white legs. Actually the bird shits on his own legs to keep cool.

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We saw warthogs, several times, this was actually in the fishing village. I thought these guys would be mean.

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Early on our tour, we saw a herd of elephants, but they were quite distant, and we were a bit disappointed. Then, by a stroke of luck, we happened upon a herd of about 40 elephants on both sides of the road, crossing it to go to water. My brother stitched together a few smart phone elephant videos here. You will hear Nicholas smugly say “Enjoy the nature”. You will also see a little baby between the legs of her mom, and very pregnant mommy to be..At one point a young one seemed about to head our direction. Our driver revved his engine to make him go back.IMAG2806

At this particular park there are no zebras nor giraffes, but they are about to be reintroduced. There are hyenas and leopards, but despite the efforts of our guides, we didn’t see them.

 

 

Deep Forbidden Lake

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The view of Lake Bunyonyi from Tyler’s front porch. About 60 PCVs came here for Thanksgiving. About 60 PCVs posted this same view on their FB or Blog. Unfortunately it was hazy for us.

 

We left Omwani Cafe and headed to the town of Kabale and beautiful Lake Bunyonyi. Karen, David and I agreed it was the worst taxi ride we had ever taken in Uganda, with either 24 or 25 people crammed together. David and I were jammed in the back row, my knees ache in memory. Two boys next to me were spitting up into a bag.

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The climb up the hill to Tyler’s place is steep and a bit challenging. Even harder going down as Karen demonstrates her crab walk. (I hope she forgives me for printing this 😉 )The picture does not do it justice. You have to watch the loose dirt, but Tyler assured us it is worse during rains.I wouldn’t enjoy this at night.

Lake Bunyonyi is in the southwest corner of Uganda near the Rwanda border  It is over 6.000 feet in elevation. It is a volcanic crater and the second deepest lake in Africa, 29 islands are scattered throughout the lake.

We met Tyler at her site and spent a night there. (She was Rosie the Riveter in the Halloween photos). Tyler is from Washington state and a Health volunteer. She is a wonderful host and very level-headed.

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On the boat with Tyler going to lunch. She often boats to other islands for her work.

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This is an entry point to see gorillas. I posted this mainly to show off my new Peace Corps T-shirt

 

 

 

 

 

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After we snooped around a couple of nearby resorts while Tyler did some work, we took a boat ride to one of the islands to have a nice lunch at a restaurant.

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Punishment Island per Wikipedia

On the way we saw a small island in the distance with a solitary tree. It is called “Punishment Island”. Per Wikipedia:
The Bakiga used to leave unmarried pregnant girls on this small island with a lone tree – to die of hunger or while trying to swim to the mainland (swimming skills were rare). This was to educate the rest, to show them not to do the same. A man without cows to pay the bridewealth could go to the island and pick up a girl. The practice got abandoned in the first half of the 20th century. Although this practice has been abandoned, it is still possible to find women who were picked up from punishment island today.
Another island was a colony for lepers.
We enjoyed a leisurely afternoon at the restaurant chatting with three girls who were independently traveling the world. They had joined together temporarily and were heading to Rwanda the next day. The American mentioned she saved her travel money by working at Google in Silicon Valley. There are 16,000 employees on that campus, but It turns out her desk was next to a guy who dated Tyler in college. They had a hoot sending him a selfie via Facebook.

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I had seen these “Keep Bunyonyi Blue” stickers around town. Just found out they are Tyler’s creation. She has also done some interesting art work on her walls which I might try to replicate.

Then it was back to Kabale, where we had dinner with Ron in a Fossils reunion. Ron bikes eight kilometers round trip to work each day and does yoga. He has lost 25 lbs, in Uganda,

The next morning we caught a 7 a.m. bus. Karen and Dave split off a couple of hours later, while I stayed on to Kampala, where I changed to a taxi and got back to Bugiri by 9 p.m. I was happy to see Meowri was still OK, and in fact my neighbor kids got their own kitten!
Dry season is hitting hard now. There was no rain my entire trip and I have to start getting to the bore hole at 6 a.m. again.

Elections are nest Thursday the 18th. Stay tuned….