A stone marker to recall the British had a “fort” here. It was actually an encampment of tents, as opposed to a structure.
As a side benefit of my evening with the straw sippers, Azedy connected with the son of the current, 37th, Royal Chief of the Bukooli clan. Azedy arranged a tour of cultural sites and artifacts on Saturday with this son as our guide. We set off for a village about 15 minutes south of Bugiri.
Much of the tour involved the 34th Royal Chief, Kauhe Wakoli. He was unhappy that his people could not understand the English language of the missionaries, so he spent three years from 1891-93 translating the Bible into Luganda language. Luganda is the most popular of the dozens of dialects in Uganda and very similar to Lusoga. The guide kept giving Kauhe Wakoli sole credit for the translation, but just recopying the Bible in English would take years, let alone his chiefly duties, so I have to guess he had some help. There is no remnant of this translation.
The tomb of Kauhe Wakoli, 34th Royal Chief of the Bakooli. When he died, he said “Don’t bury my head, and the people should not cry until it is not attached. Thus the mound on the left.
That is the top of the now disconnected skull of Kauhe Wakoli
Bugiri is the ancestral capital of the Busoga Kingdom, where they speak Lusoga. An individual from the Busoga region is a Musoga, and the people are the Basoga. There are 11 counties (clans) in Busoga Kingdom, which encompasses Bugiri, Iganga, Jinja, Kilaro, and Nambatumba (towns with PCVs) in addition to scores of villages. The Kingdom normally rotates its clans to agree on successor to the King. However, Azedy and the chief’s son said that the NRM (Museveni’s political party) politically appointed the current King from Kamuli in order to attract votes from there. The NRM also built for him a palace in Kamuli. The Basoga people have never accepted this King, and he has never visited or communicated with the area I was touring, perhaps because he fears for his life. When I spoke to Matthews, who is from this King’s town of Kamuli, about this, he laughed and said that wasn’t the truth at all. Whatever, it’s all more than you need to know.
A Wakoli is the Royal Chief of the Bukooli clan of the Busoga Kingdom (The Educate Club I support is at Bukooli College). The 37th Royal Chief is now quite old and lives in Bugiri.
A photo of the current 37th Royal Chief on a 2016 calendar. The crown is a hand-me-down from Queen Victoria. She is pictured on the upper left
Click to blow this one up. I thought these close-ups of the 34th, 35th, and 36th Royal Chiefs were interesting based on their alleged life spans alone!
These two drums are four feet tall. BOOM boom, “the British are coming!” I forgot to ask of they also employed smoke signals back in the day.
In the House of Twins, I was allowed to make an offering and a request. 5,000 shillings and some coffee beans. I requested good health for my family. If my request is granted, I have to go back and give thanks. Those are sea shells surrounding the pot from the Red Sea and Indian Ocean
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We took a walk up a hill with some impressive rock formations. You can squeeze at least ten people into a small sheltered area in that lower gap. It was a good place to go during times of strife.
At the top of the hill was this lake about five feet wide. It goes deep into the mountain and is never dry. During heavy rain the hill top is submerged. The clan would throw a baby into the lake. If he came out the spring on the other end alive, he was a true member of the clan. The rock on the left is Salongo, father of twins. On the right is Nalongo, mother of twins. The middle rock represents a wall. The twin rocks, not pictured, are behind..
It’s a lot easier and faster climbing up the slick rocks than going down.
A ceremonial room, where a clan judge sits to arbitrate disputes
Another ceremonial room
Next we headed to a place where parliament sits every December 31. First you have to pass this entrance and announce who you are, and remove your shoes,
Our guide for this tour of parliament. She smoked a pipe.
On New Years Eve, the clan gathers and sits on rocks strewn about in front of a cave. Maybe Ill go and get those thanks out of the way.
Entering the cave
This rock cave was fantastic. It is where the parliament sits. The photo does not do it justice.