Monthly Archive: September 2017

Welcome to the Machine

Last week we received a visit from the “Double Delphine”: Delphine Pinault, the CARE Uganda Country Director, and Delphine Mugisha, the program manager who developed my position, and their small entourage. It looks like we will we need to move to a bigger office, but larger available buildings are hard to come by in Arua. Delphine M. asked me to mentor the initiative managers here to help in their writing.

For my entire career, except my first three years out of law school, I either practiced solo, or as a partner in a partnership with a few employees. Probably eight people were in my largest law firm.

Meital at swearing in

Working in the Peace Corps meant I would a supervisor (called a “champion”), for the first time in 30 years. As readers know, this was Meital. In the beginning, it was a bit difficult, because I felt she was a little too “mothering” but eventually we became rather collegial, and now I love her like a sister. She complemented my writing, and gave me the confidence to apply for my current position. Meital was supposed to be the champion for the five 3rd year extension volunteers. However, last week it was announced she was leaving the Peace Corps at the end of October, for undisclosed new opportunities. She has been on leave, so I don’t know more yet. I wish only the best for her.

Of course there were a few other people above Meital in Kampala, and the whole Peace Corps agency from it’s D.C. headquarters across more than 60 countries. But generally volunteers get a lot of autonomy in our scattered isolated locations. In Bugiri, Adams was my “Supervisor”, but he was very much like one of my small business clients. ATEFO was a small NGO hanging in there, scrambling to attract donors for projects. I was never shy about giving Adams my two cents, or rather 2 shillings, about running his little enterprise, and he respected my work experience.

Today, the Peace Corps is humming very quietly in the background, as I now have become a very tiny cog in a big machine called CARE International. Wikipedia states “For the fiscal year 2016, CARE reported a budget of more than 574 million Euros ($688 million US) and a staff of 9,175 (94% of them local citizens of the country where they work)”. I don’t know if the CARE employees in the north with me exceed 50 yet, but they are increasing every week. The home office in Kampala seems more involved too.

As small as my role is, I have important responsibilities and deadlines, and there is more pressure to perform. I am taking some things off my hard working team leader Carly’s plate. She has been a patient “boss”, and I enjoy her. I have met my soon-to-be new boss Julius, who visited while he waited for visa approval. When he returns next week from his home in Kenya, there will be a small overlap with Carly before she heads back to Melbourne for a well-deserved break. I hope Julius and I will get along well.

I can’t say there is much “fat” in this office. Everyone works hard, including every Saturday. The senior staff has to go to so many meetings, both in the office and at the settlements, and yet I can understand the necessity of them. This sprawling refugee crisis is complex with lots of moving parts.
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I was a lawyer for 16 years before obtaining my first P.C. Many of you remember Dictaphones, and word processors? My lawyer friends reading this blog will recall legal research in law libraries, piling up open law reporters to photocopy cases, then cutting and taping cited opinions into hand-written briefs in legal pads to give to a word processor tech. My last two years in the villages were strictly low tech. I taught financial literacy using lessons printed on grain sacks or on white sheets of paper taped to a wall or a tree.

Today at CARE, all of the initiative managers have to use laptops (unlike ATEFO staff), and the entire CARE organization uses Microsoft Office 365 in the cloud, which is new to me. I struggle to figure out elements of Excel, PowerPoint and Word software. Back in the day I would delegate: “Fix this, so it looks this way”. Now I really need to learn how to do more, but fortunately the younger staff are quite patient to respond to my requests for guidance. I always joke with Ugandans, “My brain is not as ‘spongey’ as before.” I mean it more for learning local language, but it applies to learning software and its tricks.

I have not been able to get out as much for interviews and story writing. Story writing is a different discipline than legal writing. I had hoped my blog experience would be helpful, but….. my Peace Corps colleague Ruwani in the Kampala office, edited one of my stories. She did such a good job, I was sincerely humbled! I need to step it up!

The road from my home to town lies next to a dormant golf course. It is said the caretaker died, and that was that. Cattle is herded now.

I have lots of little hills and gullies around me. A common sight throughout Uganda, washing boda bodas in a creek.

Just up from the boda guys, ladies were digging sand. I asked what they were doing with it, and the lady pointed to a sand pile twenty feet away and said “We will sell it!”

In this nearby gully, there were always kids playing, bathing, or clothes getting washed. I paid 500 shillings to a lady down there who insisted I pay to take this pic when I asked permission.

Hygiene and Dignity Come in Buckets

Jackie unloads the truck holding components of five piece Aluminum buckets that we assembled.

Everything is unloaded, now we assemble and sort. A crowd of kids gathered while we worked. School is out until Monday.

The buckets have been assembled and items have been placed in them. When someone announced the community could have the empty boxes, the kids pounced on them in a free-for-all. Women and girls had their names checked off and then received a bucket.

Components of the hygiene kit, besides the bucket, which is used for bathing, include a long bar of soap, three packs of Always menstrual pads, three panties, and a meter or so of kitenge cloth. Some boys hanging around said they had no parents or sisters to share, and complained girls get everything in the handouts. They wanted extra bars of soap, which unfortunately, we didn’t have.

We loaded this pick-up with Dignity Kits to stock Health Centers. A Dignity Kit contains a blue plastic bathing bucket (like I use), soap, sandals, a UN t-shirt, two panties, a baby’s shirt, a baby’s shawl, kitenge cloth, a roll of cotton, and a large sack to carry it all.

The roads to settlements are often poor, especially when it has been raining. Somehow, we managed to get around this truck stuck in the mud. A couple of times we stopped because items were getting jarred loose and falling off.


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I was trying to shoot a photo of a refugee compound while we drove by, and accidentally captured these two women hauling wood.

Stacks of wheelbarrows used in connection with shelter building.

Dorms used by staff of an NGO living in Imvepi. Those are bamboo walls. CARE staff are not currently living in Settlements, but that might change. I am not allowed to stay overnight.

As part of my efforts to get familiar with what CARE does, I participated in two distribution activities. The first was the assembly and individual distribution of Hygiene Kits in Imvepi Settlement. The second was the distribution of Dignity Kits to four Health Centers in Imvepi and Rhino Camp. The photos tell the story: 

 

Ch-Ch-Changes

Anabol, from Spain, is a Gender Based Violence (GBV) specialist. She was on ten day loan from CARE-Canada. She was in Imvepi Settlement to examine how CARE can further mitigate GBV. I accompanied her on this day, when she conducted separate sessions with women, men, and teens to draw a map of the settlement and have them indicate weak points where security should be improved, often by adding a light at night, and assessing where harassment. happens. Next stop for Anabol is a three month stint in Columbia with a different NGO..

As you may know, I was somewhat frustrated by ‘down times’ during my service in Bugiri. There were lots of reasons for this. I tried to go with the flow.  

Now I might be a victim of the bromide “Be careful what you wish for…”   I have been working 50-60  hours per week, including all day Saturday, I worked at home half of Sunday editing reports from senior staff which were due Monday morning. Usually I am at the office by 7:30 a.m. and I often get home at 7 p.m.  It appears the other third year extension PCVs are also working hard. Anytime I go to a settlement it takes nearly two hours each way, and bracing against bumps in the road adds to fatigue.

I have a small pile of projects on my plate right now, and activities scheduled most days, as my work niche becomes clearer. I am learning to edit reports sent by project leaders and incorporating them into CARE’s portion of reports from all NGOs which are submitted to UNHCR and Office of the Prime Minister (OPM).  I’m sure I will be writing and/or editing many other reports.

I’ve been tasked to draft 1-2 page descriptions of CARE’s Six Current Emergency Projects and Sectors. Right now CARE’s responsibilities are primarily in three sectors: 1) Building temporary shelters for People with Special Needs ((PSNs)- Unaccompanied mothers and/or children and disabled- and providing shelter materials to able-bodied refugees; 2) Mitigating Gender Based Violence (GBV) within the settlements; and 3) Raising awareness about, and supporting Sexual, Reproductive and Maternal Health.

These are examples of temporary housing in Imvepi Camp wich is newer than Rhino Camp from my last post.. White tarp is labeled with the logo of UNHCR stretched over a frame. CARE is transitioning to semi-permanent housing which will be made from bricks. They will also be partitioned in the inside to allow some separation.

At Imvepi you can see these white -tarped houses stretching for miles

Often a spouse or children become separated from the rest of their family. The office on the left maintains a data base to reunite them.

After refugees cross the border, they spend one night there, and then are bused to the Settlement where they stay in dorms like those pictured above, for up to a week, while they get registered and shelter is arranged and built for them if necessary. Bio-metric data is recorded and a card issued to obtain food and other essentials. Anabol visited the border crossing, which is currently held by rebels. She saw two of them on the bridge with rifles slung on their shoulders and flip-flops dangling from their feet, Most of the crossings occur at night when it i cooler, and she was told you can hear fighting. She was surprised to observe many Ugandans going the other way during the day to farm the fertile land, giving produce to the soldiers in exchange for safe passage. Young men are increasingly crossing in less regulated crossings in order to avoid being involuntarily conscripted by either side..

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CARE’s projects are mostly in Rhino Camp (September 1 total refugees was 102,000); Imvepi Settlement (123,500); and it has a growing presence in Bidibidi Settlement (285,000) which recently became the world’s largest refugee settlement. Currently, there are six funded projects with a variety of sources.

One issue faced by CARE is the mandate to hire locally. Uganda’s generous policy toward refugees is supported by the idea that it will be good for the economies of the local communities. It causes tension. The foreigners up here are treated well, but there is resentment if Ugandans from other areas and tribes are hired. Last week in Yumbe, near the settlements, the signage of various NGOs were defaced by graffiti threatening violence for not hiring more locals. CARE has an office there but no signs. Never-the-less, an all-staff meeting to be held in Yumbe was switched to the Arua office, so we wouldn’t have a small caravan of CARE vehicles coming in.

In addition, CARE wants to hire a new team leader from Kenya, named Julius, to take Carly’s place. The Ministry of Immigration placed a hold on his work visa because they want CARE to hire a Ugandan. Our country director appeared before a tribunal this week to get his employment approved.  The new team leader will step into Carly’s shoes. Like Anabol before him, Julius is staying in the guesthouse next to my place on a visit, so I am starting to get acquainted with my soon to be future boss. I like the idea of meeting interesting visitors who pass through the guesthouse.

In other news, while the USA endures record-setting hurricanes and fires, Ugandans are not escaping their own natural disasters. I forgot to get the source, but this was a news report from last week.

6 people are confirmed dead, 10 missing but feared dead and over 40,000 are already displaced by flooding and landslides in Kisoro, Bududa, Sironko, Bulambuli, Bundibugyo, Rukungiri and Elegu of Amuru. Much of Teso is getting flooded.  Another 50,000 to 80,000 people will be displaced by floods in Teso subregion and Butaleja District.Storm winds and hailstorms have ravaged thousands of plantations and crops across the whole country. The 40,000 displaced have no shelter, no food, no cooking utensils, no blankets and no household kits.   In addition to starving, the victims are exposed to extreme coldness.

Hundreds of people are crying out for help. They need shelter (tents & tarpaulins), blankets, food and cooking utensils. There is urgent need for a countrywide disaster damage and loss assessment. 

Another story from the Monitor about a survivor woman shown in the photo came from is here

 

Map of the World

Momma is cooking at Rhino Camp. There are clusters of huts in a compound, similar to what I was used to in the villages.Refugees are given small plots to grow their own food.

Yay, a Coner Oberst/Monsters of Folk blog title! My son will be proud.

My first CARE assignment took three days. I learned some new skills, but I’m not sure yet, when or how I will utilize them. Nevertheless, it was real interesting, and led to my first visit to a Refugee Settlement. I represented CARE at a training with representatives of 17 other NGOs at a large compound operated by the United Nations High Commission for Refugees (UNHCR will be referenced frequently in the future.)

OpenStreetMap is a crowd-sourced mapping program. Google Maps doesn’t send it’s photo cars into much of the developing world, let alone refugee settlements, and so this is a way to handle it. An example given by our instructor was the January 12, 2010 earthquake in Haiti.  It is best explained from this blog:

Before the earthquake, widely available maps of the country of Haiti had little more than a few highways and roads. The capital city of Port-au-Prince was a shaded outline that suggested a city. The problem was that Haiti, the poorest country in the western hemisphere, had been ignored by traditional commercial data providers. Few could afford a GPS, so why build digital maps of roads or buildings?

When the earthquake struck and crisis responders began planning their aid, they were left without a means to identify cities, routes of entry, buildings, parks, or much of anything that would allow them to know how to possibly provide support to the citizens of Haiti.

Immediately volunteers began scouring for available maps and road data. Historic maps, unclassified and released from the CIA, served as the first options for understanding what infrastructure existed.

The result of all this data was that a largely empty and incomplete map gathered thousands of volunteers, developers, and organizers to generate what is currently the most complete map of the country of Haiti. The city of Port-au-Prince has been largely mapped and volunteers are now working on outlying cities and villages. Beyond just marking roads and transit information, there was analysis of damaged buildings, displacement camps, and triage centers.

The map serves more than merely a digital, web based map for viewing the decimated region. The data gathered is free and open to use by anyone….Response organizations and government agencies are using OpenStreetMap for print maps to hand out in the field, and also deploying to mobile GPS units.

And the data will only get better, providing as a resource for the long-term recovery efforts, and rebuilding. Haiti need never again be an empty spot on the map.

Check out this cool 30 second video of the mapping of Haiti within 12 hours of the earthquake.

These maps can be updated remotely from anywhere. We spent our second day of training identifying and marking roads and buildings near Arua. I got my own little square to work on. All but one of my roads were identified as paths (hence the map user would know they can’t drive a car there, perhaps a boda boda) and most of my buildings were probably huts. I also looked at my neighborhood in Denver, and added ATEFO’s identification to the Bugiri map.

On the third day, after downloading two OSM apps onto my smart phone, I went out with three teams to Rhino Camp to do mapping from the ground. We took turns mapping hospitals, schools, and health facilities. After taking a picture, and fixing the GPS point, I interviewed local people to determine, for example, for a school, how many students and instructors, does it have latrines, how many class blocks, who is the owner, is it from an NGO etc. So if someone has mapped it remotely, as a “building”, my data will be added so anyone clicking on the map will now know it is a school, with more information.

Rhino Camp is the fourth largest refugee settlement serviced by CARE in the West Nile, with nearly 80,000 refugees as of June, 2017.  That’s more than a sold out Broncos game! The Politically Correct. term is Refugee Settlement, rather than refugee camp, since these places are less temporary. Yet this settlement is called Rhino Camp because it used to be a rhino camp.
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Below are some photos from Rhino Camp.

The first object I mapped were these water tanks, courtesy of the Danish Refugee Council.

Kids get water from a tap across the road from the tanks I mapped above. These water points are also mapped.

 

A latrine made from mud for a compound. Note the water container hanging out front to wash hands. A Health PCV would be proud.

Another, very common latrine. I used one like this. It’s only for short calls. No hole was dug. Kind of yucky in there, but there is a board to stand on.

Kids play in a playground provided by Save the Children. There are also football pitches.

I mapped this school. No desks, just benches.

Your standard white savior photo. This was in front of a very well-built permanent school.

 

 

 

 

Welcome Back! You are most Welcome.

My home town for the next year. Idi Amin came from Arua, and I saw a street named for him, which is quite exceptional because street signs are rare..

When you return from any sort of trip, people will always say “Welcome Back.” Matthews used to say it every time we dismounted from a trip to a village. When you arrive in a new environment such as a village or a store or even a meeting, people say “You are most welcome.”

Casper was very accommodating for the eclipse tourists with a town square full of booths selling t-shirts, caps etc. It was like a county fair. People stuck pins showing where they came from into a world map. Since I am considered a resident by the Ugandan government (and a shorter line through immigration), I felt justified in sticking the first pin into Uganda, second pin in Africa. Denver didn’t need another pin. Quite a few pins in Europe..

I certainly enjoyed many activities during my month leave, and visiting friends and family, culminating the last few days with all five siblings in Casper, WYO to see the total eclipse.

However, the complexities of my Western life also intruded. A pile of mail from the last year took me two days to deal with. Heh- the IRS gets pretty threatening if they think you are ignoring them (My CPA is fixing it now, I should not owe what they claim). My HOA is replacing my building’s HVAC system, including asbestos remediation (it was the first ‘high rise’ in Denver, built in the late 50’s). My assessed share will wipe out a significant chunk of my investment income the last two years, without adding value. Ugh.

I got my overdue colonoscopy, and some minor dental work. I tuned up my hearing aids. I don’t think I had mentioned, I bought them two years ago, the week before I left. This was probably due to a combination of age, and 45 years of amplified rock concerts. FYI Costco has free exams and it’s aids are waay cheaper than anywhere else. Only the VA distributes more than Costco. I also brought back about 150 new batteries for them too.

After being stymied by a May blizzard two years ago, we finally could take Jan’s ashes to mountain meadow called the Valley of Flowers, just west of the Eisenhower tunnel. Clark came home for a long weekend. He has a new accounting job in New York, working for the Education Alliance, a 127 y.o. charity to boost the underprivileged on the lower East Side of Manhattan.

I bought a new laptop and smartphone. Blair teased that my Ugandan smartphone (brand name “iDroid”-although it is a U.S. company) was worse than the cheap phones her homeless clients utilize for job searches!

During the month,some of the gloom I left behind for the Peace Corps had returned. So many reminders…. Could I have a bit of mild PTSD? Perhaps if I had stayed in Denver it would have dissipated, but it seemed like it was just arrested for two years.

There certainly was no nostalgia about my earlier profession, after listening to my ‘old’ lawyer friends talk shop. The turmoil and direction of my country continues to distress me. My conversations in ‘mixed’ company were like walking on egg shells, because no one changes their mind, no matter the evidence. I found myself watching too much cable news (like… “How will FOX excuse this?”). I don’t watch much TV in Uganda, but when I do, Al Jazeera’s depth and variety of coverage puts American news outlets to shame. I salute Qatar’s courage to stand up to the rest of the Middle East, which is demanding Al Jazaeera be shut down.

Finally, Blair had an “ambiguous” CT scan soon after I arrived. It cast a pall over my stay, but a subsequent PET scan last week was more reassuring.

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The Nile is quite active here (lots of connected lakes and tributaries) and my region is called the West Nile Region.

After spending a full day in Kampala, CARE flew me in a little plane (23 passenger seats) to Arua. If I have to commute to Kampala by bus on non-CARE business, it will take 8-10 hours. It’s maybe 7 hours in a CARE vehicle. So, after 11 hours in traffic returning to Denver from Casper, and then flying to Entebbe for another 26 hours, this one hour flight was most welcome. We landed on a muddy, red clay runway, something new for me. My bag which Brussels Air had lost was delivered a few days later.

I have settled into my new home, finally overcome my jet lag, and started to acclimate to Arua town. I need to learn the greetings, and other phrases in a new local language.

The CARE office is a bustling place compared to ATEFO. One year ago, there were three CARE workers in Arua. It has now reached 34 and by next month it will be 56. Unlike me, new hires arriving in Arua are given a stipend and they must fend for themselves to find a place to board. 30% of hires must come from the local communities. Most staff spend all day at the refugee settlements of course, not at the office. I anticipate going to the field a few days a week myself.
Uganda recently took in its One Millionth refugee from South Sudan. She was symbolically identified by name, but I don’t think she received a special prize.

 

Interior view of my CARE office. I just grab a spot along the wall on the left.

This is Carly, from Australia, the temporary team leader in Arua and my local supervisor. She has worked most of her career for Oxfam, all over the world. All other staff are Ugandan,with a few Sudanese and Kenyans.

I live in this annex, as viewed from the kitchen of the CARE Guest House. The door on the left goes to my toilet and shower. The shower is not heated so I continue to heat water and bucket bathe. It gets real hot here, so there will definitely be cold showers in my future. It is too stimulating to unlock my door and go next door in the middle of the night, so I still use a bucket next to my bed (TMI?). Door on the right is a storage room. We have 24 hour guard who flips on a generator for the compound when the power goes out. Posh Corps!

My bedroom

My living room. It’s nice to have a sofa to watch movies on my computer. Eddie Bauer kindly replaced my lifetime guaranteed backpack, which had broken zippers, with the new one you see on the couch. Yes I played my Peace Corps card to get it approved.