We took a bus and then a hike to the Cape of Good Hope. They used to say this is where the Indian Ocean collides with the Atlantic Ocean but it has now been determined its about 40 km to the southeast.
Early in March, I enjoyed a nice week in Cape Town with Blair. We both needed a break. We were there during some newsworthy events. Cape Town is facing the prospect of being the first major city in the world to run out of water. The city is taking extraordinary measures to conserve. Of course, besides the climate change at the root of it, there are some political reasons how this has happened. Taps in public bathrooms were off and we were urged to use the wall-mounted hand sanitizers. I showered with very little water, which is not too different from how I bucket bathe now.
Also, South Africa’s ruling party had just dumped its longstanding President and now he is charged with corruption. Nelson Mandela saved South Africa from civil war, but, as a recent New York Times article points out:
…. the deal was reached on what many South Africans today consider Pyrrhic terms: The black majority was allowed to control politics, but much of the country’s economic resources, including land, has remained in the hands of white South Africans and a small group of other elites.
Sadly, Mandela’s legacy is the endemic corruption of the party he founded, as co-opted by those business elites.
Parliament is also starting the process to appropriate land from whites “without compensation”. Initially this seems disturbing because Robert Mugrabe destroyed the economy of Zimbabwe by mass evictions of white farmers. The South African newspapers and my discussions with many people indicate the process in South Africa will be more deliberate with smaller parcels, and it doesn’t appear there will be mass evictions. And Zimbabwe, after recently disposing of Mugrabe, is actually starting to invite some farmers to return.
More than 20 years after the end of Apartheid however, whites still control over 75% of the land. But fixing past land injustices is embedded in the South African constitution. There has been foot-dragging.
Needless to say, this land was originally taken by force by the whites without compensation. And not just in the distant past. A few blocks from our Airbnb in Cape Town is the District 6 Museum. It preserves the memory of District 6, established in 1867 as a mixed community of freed slaves, merchants, artisans, laborers and immigrants. In 1966, the government declared the land would be redeveloped into a “White Only” community. From then until 1982, 60,000 people were forcibly evicted, sometimes with only an hour’s notice. Survivors of that dark time are available at the museum to talk about it.
We also visited the Slaves’ Lodge and its adjoining museum detailing the slave trade in Cape Town. The slaves temporarily imprisoned in the Lodge were either sold for use in South Africa, or sent to the east, including Asia. American slaves did not come through here. Certainly the most distressing depictions shown at the Slaves Lodge were the forceful separation of children from their parents, and husbands from their wives. I’ll be honest; I didn’t know slave families were broken up until I saw “Roots” as an adult. Today, Americans supposedly aspire to be more supportive of family values. Of course, besides the history lessons, and water scarcity, Cape Town is an entertaining city with fine beaches and other tourist activities, although, as the article I cited above points out, segregation has survived in a more informal way.,
On the way to the Cape of Good Hope we passed the area of District 6. There was such backlash, it never got developed. The whole eviction process was a waste.
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We stopped to observe a colony of Penguins, the only one outside of Antarctica.
Cute little guys and gals
Every afternoon, clouds creep over Table Mountain, which surrounds Cape Town. But it never rained. You can hike or take a gondola to the top.
View of Cape Town from the top of Table Mountain.
Night time view of Cape Town. One building has a lighted outline of the Cape
Not sure what I thought of these “souvenirs”.
Blair has developed an interest in herbs and gardens, so we went to couple of nice botanical gardens.