Tag Archive: Bugiri

This Must be the Place

“This Must Be The Place (Naive Melody)”
Home is where I want to be
Pick me up and turn me round
I feel numb – born with a weak heart
I guess I must be having fun
The less we say about it the better
Make it up as we go along
Feet on the ground
Head in the sky
It’s ok I know nothing’s wrong… nothing

Hi yo I got plenty of time
Hi yo you got light in your eyes
And you’re standing here beside me
I love the passing of time
Never for money
Always for love
Cover up and say goodnight… say good night

Home – is where I want to be
But I guess I’m already there
I come home – she lifted up her wings
I guess that this must be the place
I can’t tell one from another
Did I find you, or you find me?
There was a time
Before we were born
If someone asks, this where I’ll be… where I’ll be

This is second time I have quoted Talking Heads at length.
Sometimes it’s a bit of a strain to come up with blog titles, and there are plenty of songs about Home, but this one muscled it’s way to the front. The lyrics seemed appropriate on many levels and it has a beautiful melody

So this a tour of my place. I have two rooms, a bathing stall, and a storage room. I failed to take “before” pictures. I am finished fixing the place up, with the exception of obtaining a spare mattress and mosquito net I can bring out of storage for rare overnight visitors.
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I am quite pleased with how it all came together, and it was fun planning it out. I had two carpenters build six different pieces for me. They didn’t always follow my specs as I drew them, sometimes adding unexpected flourishes I liked, sometimes not so much. They did follow my measurements, but some items are not quite level.

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The first thing I did, after my bed frame was brought in (by bike remember?) was measure the floors for vinyl flooring. The majority of the buildings in Uganda, including my office, have smooth cement floors, like garage floors back home. Usually they are left bare, sometimes there are rugs on them. I don’t like the grey drab of them, and they get dusty, especially from shoes.. My floors had a red sheen painted on them. I noticed a similar sheen in a restaurant, but it was wearing off to the grey.

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I was inspired by the vinyl floor my host family had in my room. Many shops sell this in 2 meter wide rolls with a variety of patterns. I needed 9.1 meters. These are smooth to sweep the ubiquitous red clay grains, and easy to squeegee and mop up liquids (invariably from pouring water out of the heavy Jerry cans). I used odd extra pieces to fill in gaps, and wound up cutting a large chunk out from under my bed. I even cut it to fit around the door frames. I really wanted to get patterns on the over lapping seams to line up perfectly, until I discovered the basic pattern is actually a rectangle by a slight amount. These floors tear easily, so I always move my chairs without scraping them across the vinyl. I walk on it barefoot, shower shoes or slippers. This flooring is what I am most proud of, thus the extended blathering about it.

Starting in my living/bed room, looking back toward my front double door. There are also windows in each room. Door and windows have bars behind the glass. Behind that, there are solid inside metal doors that latch. When the inside doors are open, they let in plenty of daylight. I close the inside doors and padlock the double door whenever I leave, even for a minute. The fabric on the wall says “Peace on Earth”.

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This was built to hang my shirts and trousers. The carpenter added the shoe rack below. The shoe rack slopes a little, but the rest of it does not slope despite the way it looks. When it was delivered, my hangers did not fit over the rail. He thought I would put nails into the rail and hang hangers on the nails, which admittedly was similar to my home stay room. He came back and sawed the rail in half. There is another rail in the back.

I bought this four level TV stand to use for the rest of my clothes. I regret not using my carpenter. The papers above, in my “Peace Corps Corner”, are L to R : my Lasoga Proficiency Certificate; my personal invitation to the swearing in ceremony; my personalized welcome poster from training; a map of Uganda showing our Consolidation Points to gather during civil unrest or disasters (and the step before evacuation, if necessary); and a list of the wardens who would be communicating with us in such event. Peace Corps has Emergency Action Plans in every country. My niece was evacuated from of Bolivia this way.

My bed and desk. The only electric outlet in the room is on the wall behind the desk, so I use a power strip. The papers taped above are the names, phone numbers and email addresses of my fellow PCVs. Next to my desk is a fan I can move between my two rooms.

Going into the next room, the back wall with laundry basin and Jerry cans

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This is my kitchen and dining area. The custom built piece is over 7 feet long, 2 feet wide, 4 feet high, with shelves a foot apart. It is very heavy. I assumed the carpenter would assemble it in the room as he did with my bed, but it came on a boda boda in one piece! I learned this too late, and wished I had seen it and taken a picture. The blue buckets in the back are a water sterilization system issued by the Peace Corps. Pour bore hole water in the top bucket, pass it through a Sawyer filter, and get clean water in the bottom bucket. No need to boil (except for tea, coffee and bucket bathing). Buckets hold a Jerry can worth (20 liters). The original bottom bucket had a spigot. However, it isn’t sealed well, and has a drip drip leak. Water was all over the floor the next morning (but easy to squeegee!). So I switched with my my bathing bucket and dip for water out of the top. In a splurge, which I think is justified, I bought the small refrigerator you see on the left. I drink a cold glass of brewed tea with dinner. I keep fruits and veggies fresh and protected from pests (a mouse and gecko have paid me brief visits) and keep leftovers from the extra large portions I get in restaurants in plastic containers I carry in my backpack. I bought frozen ground beef in Iganga yesterday, and it is thawing out for spaghetti and meat sauce one night and a hamburger the next. So nice to finally cook some American for myself. The table cloth is made from dress fabric, sown by a tailor (you will see her interesting picture in future post) The blue desk lamp on the table, with three brightness settings, was issued by Peace Corps and is solar powered. I charge it at work. There are frequent power outages here, so the lamp is handy. I bring it to bed for night reading too. I’m reading “The Book Thief” at the moment-excellent. A large road map of Uganda is on the wall. It was getting tattered so I retired it, and labeled it with the locations of all 45 volunteers.

 

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This is my “Reminders of Home” area. Family photo on table, and on the wall is Jan’s memorial, and Colorado and Northglenn-Thornton Rotary Club Banners. The Colorado item was a gift at my going-away party to wear on my neck, but it’s too pretty to ruin with sweat and dirt

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This vanity was originally my desk, but it came out too high. Perfect for this though. I had the carpenter lower the shelf, and now the whole thing tilts.

These were flip charts fellow fossil David made when we taught a youth group together. He was a graphic artist at home, and I couldn’t bear to throw them out. Eventually for repetitive lectures I will use rice sacks so they can be reused.

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My bucket bathing area. Note the offending spigot. My carpenter put in a block with posts to hang my towel and undies to dry. It is culturally unacceptable to hang undies on the line outdoors.

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I get a small storage room with its own door and padlock. I might not need that luggage for two years.

Goin’ Mobile

First off, a shout out of thanks to my Northglenn-Thornton Rotary Club for stepping up to cover the school fees and boarding expenses for Sharon’s last two years of High School! She will start during the summer break on August 7, and make up the two terms she missed along with her third term until December. Then she will have a more normal last senior year from January until December. All this for $525 US.

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They waited until I picked out a mattress before they had the frame made. Then we walked through town with the disassembled frame.

I am in Bugiri until Friday morning and then go to “Tech Immersion” in Kibali. So far, I think I am going to like Bugiri. I have partially moved into my new home. It’s got a painted concrete floor with two rooms. With my move in allowance I will put down vinyl flooring, as in my home stay room. Nice looking and easier to sweep. I will use one room for a kitchen and eating table, and the second for combo bed and living room. An electrical outlet is in each room. I will need power strips. There is no running water so I will have to go about 100 yards down the road with a Jerry can to a water pump. I bought a kettle, so I can boil the water in the morning for my tea/coffee and my Nalgeen bottle, and in the evening I will add it to a bucket of cold water for bathing. Fortunately, I also have a stall inside my place for bucket bathing, so I don’t have to go outside for that, where the mosquitoes lurk.

Those cans are pretty heavy when they are filled with water.

Those cans are pretty heavy when they are filled with water.

So my place is a bit rustic, like my first place in Capital Hill during law school, minus the running water and cockroaches (I might get a cat to deal with any pests later). I thought I would hire a neighbor to wash my clothes but I only have two neighbors in this quiet tri-plex. One is a very pregnant lady named Sarah with a girl I would say is about 7 and a 1 y.o. baby. Haven’t seen the husband yet. The other neighbor is a man named Ali, who just started working for the town in the planning department (I think).
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My supervisor with the NGO I will work for (African Trainers and Entrepreneurial Forum), Adams, is a nice jovial person and I have a good office set-up (no internet though). Most of the time I will be going out to the fields to meet with rice farmers. I will travel on the back of my counterpart’s motorcycle. I’m still not sure what they plan for me.

Adams is thrilled I am a Rotarian and said he hopes I can attend each weekly meeting of the Bugiri Rotary club on Thursdays. It just got chartered (6/15) but already has 35 members. As most of us know, in most countries the Rotary Club members are the elites of the community, so this will surely help to get me integrated. I am glad I brought a couple of our banners to exchange. The meeting started an hour late (African time!) and they will party until midnight. Adams borrowed a car t take me home earlier. I look forward to working with this club. Peace Corps always wants volunteers to start youth groups, so I think I will start a few Interact Clubs, which are Rotary high school youth groups.

My counterpart is Matthews. He is a bit difficult to understand, but otherwise, a we get along fine. While sharing a meal with Matthews, he happened to mention that they stress organic farming without pesticides. This was a big thing with Peter Jensen too, and led to an intense discussion about perma-gardening. I showed Matthews pictures I had taken during training of the various stages of the garden we dug. He totally understood the concepts of water from the roof, double-digging, storage for dry season etc. I remarked that unfortunately my new home site wasn’t suited for my own perma-garden, but he thought he could find several locations that could work as demonstration sites. He’s pretty excited about the potential for this. Timing is perfect to get them dug in August and planted just before rainy season starts up. Adams requested me to send him my perma-gardening pictures on WhatsApp.

I take the time to greet and stop to talk to the people I meet walking to work and back. I have yet to see any other muzungus (white people). I have a whole new crop of kids to teach my name.

Rearviewmirror II

My latest round-up of the miscellaneous. My brother is on vacation so my less skilled photo posting is back this week.

Thanks for your kind words about my blog. I enjoy writing it.

We are in transition from rainy to dry season. It hasn’t rained more than a smidgeon in three days. The red clay roads get dusty from passing motokas (motor cars) and boda bodas (motorcycles). We were told not to wear contact lenses, and it’s easy to see why. It’s in the low 80’s and seems pretty hot to me, but it will get much hotter. An electric fan is on the top of my list of acquisitions when I move to my place in Bugiri.

My home stay father Simon’s school is across the road from my home. Last week I told the kids in the playground “I am Charley” (not “muzungu” -what Ugandans, especially children, call strangers, usually white strangers). Now when I go by, the kids in the playground run to the fence calling “Charley, Charley” and I am obliged to go to the fence and give each one a fist bump (bonga). Sometimes I cross paths with one of the kids walking outside the school yard and they’ll say “Charley”. Nick says it’s like I’m like a rock star! Sadly, in America, old men interacting with children on the playground are not considered rock stars.

Innocent sometimes ties dead leaves around a wadded up plastic bag to use as a soccer ball. The other day I brought out a yellow tennis ball I’d picked up at the market. Now about every other day I will bring it out to bounce back and forth with the three kids and Jordan, a neighbor, on the newly cemented courtyard. They don’t catch it well, so usually there is a mad scramble after a miss. The one who misses retains the privilege of throwing it back to me, or there will be crying. They all actually throw it pretty well. Sometimes I sit in the shade and let them play among themselves. Almost immediately it turns into soccer.

There are some real environmental issues here. They cut down lots of straight timber to help with construction, supporting new roofs or floors, but don’t re-use them, choosing instead to burn them for cooking. .Here is an example of the use of timber in a building in Jinga (source of the Nile), where we went Saturday.

Jinga construction

Jinga construction

Kids bring branches to school to contribute to the kitchen

Kids carrying sticks to school

Kids carrying sticks to school

I met Trevor, 18, one of Simon’s sons from his other wife. Trevor remembers when it was cooler. It’s not just from climate change, it’s from the deforestation to support the construction and cooking (which of course does contribute to climate change). He tells me there used to be thicker forests in our neighborhood as recently as ten years ago. Ken from the Peace Corps, who is handling language teaching this week, tells me that Iganga is every bit as hot a my soon to be new home in Bugiri, but in Bugiri they have cut down even more timber. Hard to find shade he says, but similar heat when you are walking down the road.

There is trash everywhere on the roads. It’s far worse than my daughter’s room back home :-). Actual trashcans are non-existent, even for my room.I use the flat lid from my bathing bucket and take my trash to a refuse pile about thirty yards away.

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Trash along the road

Trash along the road

Pickers come through and pick up what they can, especially the plastic water bottle. Eventually the rest is burned.

Refuse Pile

Refuse Pile

Could I get my new neighbors to use trash cans? Where would it go then? Probably another refuse pile, but at least the streets would be cleaner. They were burning refuse at our school today and the smoke was finding its way inside. I was breathing through a neckerchief.

There is a TV in the living room. Hellen, Sharon and Edith enjoy watch soap operas from Uganda, India, The Philippines and apparently Mexico, though I have yet to see a Mexican soap opera. When Simon is here, he watches a little BBC but mostly local Ugandan news and Al Jezeera. I had liked watching Al Jezeera’s coverage of the Arab Spring a couple of years ago. It’s pretty good, sort of like CNN used to be. Much coverage last week about the Greek financial crisis, From the U S we got coverage about the Confederate flag controversy. When he flips through the channels I see Fox News float by. Is it an international version? I guess I don’t care to see.

Uganda TV is in the middle of transition from analog to digital. Last week a court enjoined shutting off analog because not enough people had purchased the converter boxes. There are 3.2 million TVs in Uganda, 70% in Kampala and its surrounding communities. Simon has a pay TV arrangement, receiving his signal via a tall antenna pole, not a dish.

I’ve been using cursive when I take notes in language class. My fellow trainees tell me they were never taught cursive. I had no idea, I guess it makes sense in the world of the internet. I have had Ugandans help me with language who read my notes and do not know cursive either. They re-write my Lasoga words and they are often the same as my cursive.

When we went to Jinja on Saturday, a local volunteer took us to a Mexican restaurant. They had a well-stocked all-you-can eat Taco bar for 12,000 shillings (about $3.45 US). Our gluttony was disgusting. While the Ugandan food is so repetitive, so is Mexican food, and frankly the food in most of the world I suppose. We do agree the white rice here is the best we’ve had. They sort it on a plate before cooking to remove pebbles. I have developed the habit of smashing everything carefully with my tongue, as chipped teeth are an unfortunate hazard here.

Before I move out on Monday, my family wants to go downtown for a portrait of all of us to hang in their living room. They are already saying they will miss me. The feeling is mutual. They have been fantastic.

I will post more about my upcoming schedule soon….

Tunawayonga (We shall chat again).

The Site Is Right

For the site selection announcements today they made it like the “Price is Right”, calling it the “The Site is Right”  i.e. “Charley! Come on Down!” Cheesy as it seems. Then after a few corny jokes (I can’t even remember what they said about me) we were each told our location.

I will be working with rice farmers, and youth for the African Trainer and Entrepreneurs Forum. I will be living in Bugiri District, which is east of Kampala near the Northern Shores of the Lake Victoria, not too far from the border with Kenya.

It’s swampy, hence the rice farming. It will be hot and I’ll have to protect myself from Mosquitoes. There is a nearby volunteer I’ve heard about, working on a new product you can spray on the walls that prevent the malaria mosquitoes from landing. If they can’t land on walls, they won’t stay.

Quoting pertinent parts from the from the job description:

African Trainer and Entrepreneurs Forum was founded in 2009 to engage women and youths in modern agricultural practice. Our goal is to strengthen and support capacity of smallholder family farms and business communities in agribusiness and investment for economic transformation and food security.
MAJOR ORGANIZATION ACTIVITIES
 –  Promote rural financial inclusion through the Village Savings and Loans Association (VSLA) methodology
-  Mobilize people and support them in creating income generating activities including soap-making, charcoal briquettes, candle making, mushroom growing
 –  Supporting rice farmers in growing lowland rice

PRIMARY JOB DUTIES
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 – Conduct regular field visits to beneficiaries to provide hands on technical assistance,mentoring and coaching
 – Mobilize participating farmer groups and clusters to participate in collecting marketing and bulk purchasing of agro-inputs
 – Enhancing building capacity of farmers in business management and skills through training in farming as a business
 – Promoting farmer access to agri-finance through training and VSLA methodology

My supervisor is “an entrepreneur and mentor to Ugandan youths through the Uganda Youth Entrepreneur League. In his free time he likes to spend time with his friends, many of whom are part of the Rotary Club.” Uganda is the second most entrepreneurial country in the world (percentage of independent businesses). Getting acquainted with the local Rotary Club will help my integration into the community.

Here are more photos from today. Sorry about the quality. I think they look good on my camera and on Google Drive but they get fuzzy when I transfer them to WordPress. Even the map above (not from my camera) transferred fuzzy. Still learning.

To the right I am posing with Lucine, the Uganda Country Director. She is from Armenia, where she met her husband, a Peace Corps volunteer. She became a U.S. citizen and has worked in several countries. She told me Peace Corps has a five year rule, and she will be leaving us next year.

IMAG0927On the left, David (56) my roommate during training, myself (60), and Ron (66). They claim Wisconsin as their home state, but neither have lived there for a long time. In one of our evaluation groups we called ourselves the “Fossils”. They will be posted in the west, across the country from me.IMAG0937

Peace Corps brought in some dancers and drummers after our site selection ceremony.

DancingOn the left, I’m dancing with a native dancer. (Photo from another camera). We were all kind of pushed out there.

In a few weeks I’ll be living with my Home Stay community with four other volunteers somewhere in the Eastern section, One of them, Nick, is from Kansas City and will be posted in nearby Jinga, at the headwaters of the Nile. He loves the Kansas City Chiefs, poor guy. Carson, a Denver University grad hailing from Vermont, will also be nearby. We will be learning the Lusoga language. It’s nearly identical to Lugando, the dominant language. First however, are two weeks of intensive Ag training.